TANZANIA: The Eastern Usambara Mountains

Heading east we passed numerous Kapok trees with white fibrous cotton hanging from the seed pods as well as Coconut Palms, a sure sign that we were dropping in elevation and getting closer to the coast. Before reaching the Indian Ocean we turned north heading for the Amani Nature Reserve in the Eastern Usambara Mountains (above). The five sawmills on the edge of town gave us an indication of what lay ahead. While acres upon acres of hillside had been logged, we were unprepared for the amount of devastation that this caused to the habitat along the southern part of this lowland forest.

After the necessary paperwork was complete at the Reserve gate, we spent the remainder of the afternoon walking the road, checking the overhanging branches over the river in the hopes of finding a Half-collared Kingfisher. Unfortunately it was flowing far too fast, the recent rains having elevated the water level and turned the water brown. As we approached a bend in the road a vocal Green-headed Oriole in the canopy kept ahead of us. We did well to locate two Narina Trogons as they moved through the forest. A Uluguru Violet-backed Sunbird flittered about in front us as Black-bellied Starlings flew over. Above us in the top of a bare tree, a Peregrine was busy eating a Green Barbet (above).

We met Victor, one of the forest guides, at breakfast and proceeded on a lengthy drive over rough roads and through tea plantations (above) to the Kwamkoru Trail (below). A Green Barbet was the first bird to greet us, followed by Yellow-throated Woodland Warbler and noisy Little Greenbuls. The Long-billed Tailorbird is a small, secretive forest warbler, with two isolated populations, one in Mozambique, and a larger group here at Amani, estimated at about 200 birds! The first location we tried failed to produce a sighting, but along this wonderful primary forest trail there were Green-backed Twinspots feeding on grass seedheads; a Southern Banded Snake-Eagle moving from perch to perch; Fischer’s Turaco’s calling, Grey Cuckoo-shrike and more Green-headed Orioles.

Along a slope across from a narrow stream, there was considerable activity moving through the understory. The mixed flock included African Paradise Flycatchers with their long tails trailing behind them as they flew to pick off insects. Yellow-streaked Greenbuls and Dark-backed Weavers foraged in vines and amongst the roots of towering trees. A Bar-tailed Trogon sat long enough for all to see. Higher up in the mid story a Square-tailed Drongo sallied for insects that had eluded the flock below.  On the way back to the Amani Research Center for lunch, we walked a stretch of the river and quickly located two beautiful Half-collared Kingfishers (below) fishing from various branches over the water.

Following lunch we headed to another section of the forest in search of the Long-billed Tailorbird. Along the way a Cabanis Bunting was perched on a wire and White-eared Barbets coming to a nest cavity greeted us upon our arrival at a known tailorbird territory. While White-chested Alethe was heard calling from the forest undergrowth, a Fischer’s Turaco flew into the canopy above us as we were tracking down a pair of Long-billed Tailorbirds. They were very vocal, making it easy enough to track them, but since they are known for their sulking behavior, it required patience before we were rewarded with wonderful short but close views.

Other creatures we encountered on these walks included a six-inch African Giant Snail, a miniscule Vermiculated Tree Frog and numerous butterflies – Catuna (above), Usambara Glider, Black-bordered Charaxes and various Acraea and Bicyclus species.

There were tremendous overnight rains that continued into the morning hours. Without the possibility of birding we slowly made the trek down the mountain and headed for the Kenyan border.