BRAZIL 2011: Brilliant Birds and Magical Moments

Day 6 / August 16 – Another glorious day at Cristalino began with several hours spent atop the “New Tower,” with sweeping views of the Amazon Rainforest (above) and plenty of bird activity to entertain us. The voice of the Amazon, provided by the Screaming Piha, rang out from all directions – heard but not seen.  Paradise Tanager and Opal-rumped Tanager flashed bright colors as they flitted on the canopy below us.  The electric-blue Spangled Cotinga perched conspicuously atop one tree, while the Pompadour Cotinga (below) chose an adjacent perch to show off his burgundy plumage – his wings flashed bright white in flight. 

Red-necked and Curl-crested Aracaris jumped from tree to tree, crossing paths with White-throated Toucans and Bare-necked Fruitcrow.  A pair of Brown-banded Puffbirds showed well, in the same tree as a Black-girdled Barbet.  We saw Short-billed Honeycreeper, Black-faced Dacnis, White-vented Euphonia, and Gray Eleania.  Strong-billed Woodcreeper was heard.  Flocks of White-bellied Parrots and Golden-winged Parakeets flew across the treetops, and a Crested Eagle was spotted far, far away.

The sun’s rays were already hot by 8:15 am, when we descended the tower back down to the Cocoa Trail.  We spent ample time tracking a Banded Antbird, a tiny brown bird who walked silently along the forest floor.  Finally everyone got satisfying looks of this hard-to-see species, and we moved on to study a flock in a tree to which Marty brought our attention.  A half hour in this spot yielded good looks at endemic Para Gnatcatcher, Striped Woodcreeper, Tooth-billed Wren, Plain Xenops, Epaulet Oriole, Blue-cheeked Jacamar, Piratic Flycatcher, Bar-breasted Piculet, Black- capped Tityra, Streaked Flycatcher, Rufous-winged Antwren and Rufous-bellied Euphonia.

Our birdy morning was followed by a relaxing swim in the Cristalino River, a delicious lunch, and time to photograph many colorful species of butterflies around the lodge grounds.  Edie was fortunate enough to find a stunning blue Periander Swordtail (above). 

We added Amphiro Redwing and Orange-tipped Angled Sulphur to the lengthy list, but my favorite was a Deucalion Beauty perched on a Yellow-spotted River Turtle’s nose (above)!

Birding from a boat in the Amazon Rainforest is a spectacular experience, and this afternoon was no exception.  Macaws flew overhead demanding attention with their long tails, brilliant colors and ear-piercing screeches.  Sunbitterns (below) poked along the river bank, flying in short bursts that flashed owl-eye markings on their wings.  Green and Amazon Kingfishers, Striated Heron, Green Ibis and Anhingas each took their place on the river, near Rusty-margined Flycatchers and Great Kiskadees.  Several Capybaras of various sizes lumbered lazily on the riverbanks.

We were almost sorry to get out of the boat, but we looked forward to our second visit to the Magic Pond, wondering what new species it might bring.  Walking down the trail we got our best looks at a Gould’s Toucanet which flew over and stopped briefly.  We reached the clearing, settled onto benches behind a camo-sheet blind, and focused on the small watering hole in front of us.  A large Yellow-footed Tortoise lumbered steadily over to the pond, presumably the same one as before.  We enjoyed repeat looks at species seen there the other night: Thrush-like Schiffornis, now known as Amazona Schiffornis, Snow-capped Manakin, White-winged Shrike-Tanager, Sepia-capped Flycatcher, Rufous-rumped Foliage-Gleaner, White-backed Fire-Eye fanning its tail, Bare-eyed Antbird, Scale-backed Antbird, Ruddy Quail-Dove and Gray-breasted Sabrewing.  Some new species came in for a drink too, including Chestnut-winged Hookbill, Ochre-bellied Flycatcher, White-crowned Manakin, White-browed Antbird, Saturnine Antshrike, Spot-backed Antwren, Spot-winged Antshrike, Rufous-faced Antbird (split from Spot-winged Antbird), and Short-billed Leaftosser.  We heard Ocellated Poorwill close by.  As dusk faded to darkness, the Long-tailed Potoo again flew into the clearing, this time alighting at the far end of the opening.  The ‘Magic Pond’ certainly lives up to it’s name.

Our boat motored slowly back to the lodge beneath a starry night. We could feel more than see the bats that swooped low over our heads hawking insects.  Our spotlights swung around the trees, illuminating Boat-billed Herons, Capped Heron, a Little Nightjar perched on a branch, and 3 Pacas halfway up the riverbank, one of which scrambled into a hole much to our surprise.

On Patty’s request, the lodge staff had kindly put-up a sheet with a fluorescent light to attract nocturnal insects.  After another delicious dinner, she and Debbie examined some interesting moths, mantids, beetles and insects on the sheet before the generators went off for the evening.  Never a dull moment in the Amazon!