MOROCCO: Oukaimeden and Tizi-n-Test

Red-billed and Alpine Choughs

December 2 –  We awoke before dawn, in time to see the sky lighten in lovely shades of purple, orange around the jagged mountain peaks. The sun rose above the reservoir, highlighting a brilliant blue sky and sparkling, snow-covered landscape. We bundled-up and stepped outside into crisp air, silent except for our boots crunching on the snow. The temperature was 22-degrees F as we walked down the road, catching the first calls of Red-billed and Alpine Choughs as they came out of the mountains and landed noisily on rooftops. Soon a White Wagtail zipped across our path and dropped down to drink from a half-frozen creek. We found two Atlas Chaffinches in the boughs of a dense conifer tree; one hopped onto a wire to check us out. A pair of Mistle Thrushes sang melodiously from atop a bare tree, and a Black Redstart darted across some shrubs to land on a ledge.

Heading back inside to warm numb fingers and toes, we noticed individuals striding across the mountain, breaking paths in the snow, carrying ski equipment. These enterprising young men spent freezing nights in brick huts to make a living selling ski lessons and renting equipment to hordes of locals visiting on this sunny Sunday. We never saw smoke from the abandoned-looking buildings, and there wasn’t much supply of wood fuel around, so they must use plenty of blankets to keep warm!

After a breakfast of toast, apricot jam, sweet cakes and omelette, we ventured back out, this time driving to the highest point possible from this spot – the radar tower above our heads. As Mustapha negotiated the poorly-plowed track, we searched for birds amongst the snow-covered boulders. We glimpsed a Levaillant’s Green Woodpecker flying across the road, but could not relocate him. We enjoyed gorgeous views of the valley below, and decided to walk most of the way back down. The resort bustled with activity, as cars unloaded eager day-visitors, men set-up their ski equipment, dogs ranged around, and lodge workers swept snow from their patios. We saw several mules laden with parcels and riders lumbering across the ridge. A Grey Wagtail darted across our path, drawing our attention to nearby Rock Buntings and a Maghreb Blackbird. A Common Kestrel flapped high overhead, contrasting beautifully against the piercing blue skies.

It was after 11:15 am when we finally left Chez Juju, and began the long journey to Taroudannt. The views were stunning as we descended the mountain down the same road we’d come up the day before. We saw a lone North African Raven perched on a tree top, cawing away. Further down the road we stopped briefly to scan a shrubby lot and found an African Blue Tit. Our drive was slow, as the road was icy, especially in areas yet-untouched by the sun. One vehicular debacle cost us time, but fortunately nothing worse, when we encountered a long line of cars stopped at a steep, icy curve. The upbound cars were unable to drive up the slope, and were sliding down dangerously. Groups of men were out of their cars and helping push each car up the icy part. Fortunately we were the only downward-bound car and managed to drive down the slope and squeeze past the line-up!

Finally we reached the snow-free Ourika Plains and stopped at the same bustling village to buy bread for our lunch. At the town round-about we took the road headed southwest. Soon the landscape changed to arid, rocky, agricultural fields which attracted several species. We stopped to admire a colorful male Moussier’s Redstart, and heard larks singing all around. A Thekla’s Lark came up close, pecking on the rocks and boulders. Several White Wagtails bounced across the road, and a Common Kestrel was perched on a wire.

In Asni, we photographed a pair of White Storks on their large stick nest, and Mustapha spotted an Atlas Long-legged Buzzard perched a long distance away. Fortunately, it flew in our direction, giving us better looks.

At 2:00 pm we began the long ride through the Tizi-n-Test pass in the High Atlas mountains. The road winded continuously through switchbacks, on the climb up and the descent down. We enjoyed a roadside picnic lunch amidst juniper shrubs which hosted African Chaffinch, Black Redstart and Great Tit.

Bright sun illuminated hamlets clinging to the mountainside, seemingly carved out of stone, where Berbers build their houses from earthen bricks known as “pise,” and toil through the seasons to survive. On neat, square plots, they grow vegetables that survive in high altitudes, including barley, corn, turnips and potatoes. They cultivate orchards of fruit and olive trees on terraced plots. River water is channeled to irrigate crops and keep herds of goats and sheep.

Deb kept a white-knuckle grip on the car handles for some of the drive, gasping through clenched teeth each time the car edged close to the edge of the sheer cliff dropoff. Actually, the road has been widened, and improved with metal barriers and rock walls in recent years!

A little after the half-way point – and still not at the top of the pass – we spotted a Levaillant’s Green Woodpecker flying close to the road, and stopped to get closer looks. A Sardinian Warbler flitted nearby in low scrub.

The top of the Tizi-n-Test pass, at 2100 meters, was marked by a larger pullout and small cafe, which we passed at 5:00 pm. This point in the mountains was about 600 meters lower than Oukaimeden, and, thankfully, we traversed only a few icy stretches, and saw snow only on the distant high peaks.

Junipers dominated the habitat, along with scattered holm oaks. At a tight corner next to Hotel Bellevue, we pulled over and found Blue Rock Thrush, Black Redstart and African Blue Tit. Farther down, we stopped again when a pair of Barbary Partridge flushed from a scrub patch and disappeared against the rocky cliffside. A pair of Crag Martins swooped in and roosted in an rock outcropping over our heads. In fading light, Adrian spotted a Black Wheatear perched on a roadside boulder, giving us good looks.

We were finally over the pass at 6:15 pm, and drove into Taroudannt in darkness. After a long day on the road, looking for birds amongst arid rocks, and watching traditionally-dressed villagers trudge along steep paths carrying large bundles, it was surprising to enter the bustle of the city. As the former capitol of the south, Taroudannt was alive with shops, people and commerce. Donkey carts, bicycles, taxis and pedestrians navigated the narrow streets, heading to their destinations.

The staff at “La Maison Anglaise” welcomed us warmly, like old friends. Soon we were checked into our room, and sitting down to a delicious, home-cooked meal of chicken tajine, a variety of side dishes, dessert, cookies and sweetened “moroccan whiskey” (mint tea!)

text © debbie beer;  all photos © adrian binns