YUCATAN: The Wonders of Calakmul

Day 5 / March 5 – Once the largest city of the Mayan Empire, the ruins of Calakmul are now recognized as a World Heritage site, and a critically important archeological site and Biosphere Reserve. Indeed, we found the fascinating pyramids and expansive wildlife of Calakmul were wonderful to explore.

Based at the charmingly rustic “Puerta Calakmul” lodge at the edge of the Reserve, we awoke to the sound of Black Howler Monkeys roaring in the forest, and the night watchman telling us he heard a Puma calling. After coffee and biscuits we set-off eagerly, hoping to catch some nocturnal activity before dawn.

It took us nearly 3 hours to drive the 60 km road down to the entrance of Calakmul, as we stopped often to look, listen and enjoy the experience. We were surprised and delighted at the number of mammals – Eastern Cottontail, Yucatan Brown Brocket Deer, Collared Peccary, and Central American Aguoti. Our first of several Ocellated Turkeys crossed the road at first light. A stop at a pond produced a Least Grebe and Gray-neck Wood Rail.

As we watched Scrub Euphonias in the treetops, the rough scolding of Red-throated Ant-tanagers alerted us to an ant swarm that attracted Long-billed Gnatwren and Northern Barred Woodcreeper, among others.

We reached the Calakmul car park at 7:45 am, where we found several curious Ocellated Turkeys (above), a pair of Bat Falcons guarding their nest hole high in a bare tree, and just one other car. Located about 30 kms from the border of Guatemala and many miles off the main highway, Calakmul remains remote and isolated from the typical tour circuit of Mayan ruins. We appreciated the solitude and set-off at a leisurely pace, enjoying the exotically beautiful songs of toucans and parrots, plus the wings of doves and the audible chatter of hummingbirds.

For the next 8 hours we wandered the trails, pishing and imitating the pygmy owl to great success. We drew in mixed flocks of warblers that included Hooded, Magnolia, Black-throated Green, Black-and-white, and Blue-winged, as well as American Redstart, Ovenbird, Tropical Gnatcatcher, Lesser Greenlet, and Northern Beardless-Tryannulet. We heard the mournful call of Dusky-capped Flycatcher, and saw Blue Bunting, White-bellied Emerald, Cinnamon Hummingbird, Wedge-tailed Sabrewing (above), Ruby-throated Hummingbird, Stub-tailed Spadebill, Yellow-olive Flycatcher and trogons.

We watched a troop of Black Howlers (above) including a young one feeding quietly in the trees. A small group of Spider Monkeys munched on succulents, getting their water high off the ground.

Additional bursts of activity brought a Plain Xenops, Ivory-billed Woodcreeper, White-browed Wren and Northern Bentbill. White-tipped Doves were heard, but difficult to see.

Calakmul means “the city of two adjacent pyramids,” and we were duly impressed by Pyramids I and II which, at 55 meters height, reached high above the canopy, offering unforgettable views of a vast forest stretching to Tikal and beyond. We climbed Pyramid I getting eye-to-eye with a perched Bat Falcon (above), and looking down on Couch’s Kingbird, Golden-fronted Woodpecker and Great-crested Flycatcher. The summit of Pyramid II revealed a special sighting of an Ornate Hawk-Eagle on nest; through the scope we saw the female turning her egg with her large, hooked bill.

Driving back up the long, slow road, we stopped to study several parties of birds at different ant swarms. Red-crowned and Red-throated Ant-Tanagers, Ivory-billed and Ruddy Woodcreeper, Gray-throated Chat and Kentucky Warbler were all feeding actively. Roadside Hawks were always nearby, and sometimes startled from the ground where they were likely hunting large insects or small rodents and reptiles that were fleeing from the relentlessly advancing army of ants. We watched five Gray-headed Tanagers (above) jumping comically on the road, intent on their feast.

As we entered our lodge at the end of the day, we spotted a Thicket Tinamou walking silently into the foliage, and a Bright-rumped Attila coming in to drink from the pond. A delicious meal and cold beverages served in a lovely rustic setting created the perfect ending to a wonderful day in Calakmul.