The PHILIPPINES: Luzon, the Largest Island – Part 2

Subic Bay was among the most interesting and historic places we visited in the Philippines. Located 100km northwest of Manila Bay, Subic Bay (below) served first as a strategic port for the Spanish, then as an important base for American military operations in the Pacific. In June 1991, the Mount Pinatubo volcano erupted 20 miles away with devastating results. The U.S. bases eventually closed, and for the first time since the 16th century there were no foreign militaries present on the Philippines.

We were enticed not by the military history, but the prospect of fairly easy birding in protected lowland forest areas, and the potential for many endemics found on parts of the base complex. Our journey to and from Subic Bay was characterized by expansive rice fields along the highway and an impressive number of species seen from the vehicle. Unable to even slow down or pull over we identified Black-winged Stilt, Yellow Bittern, White-breasted Waterhen, Oriental Pratincole, Purple Swamphen, and Greater Painted-snipe in the roadside wet areas. Red Turtle-Dove, Crested Myna and White-throated Kingfisher were also seen on the wing.

It was an early morning start to explore Hill 394 (above) in the Subic Forests. We took a gradual walk for several miles through an open forest to a knoll overlooking Subic Bay. Vistas along the way opened into broadleaf forest with mature trees and bamboo, where we found Sooty Woodpecker, Red-crested Malkoha, Amethyst Brown-Dove, Greater Flameback, Blackish Cuckoo-shrike, Philippine Fairy-Bluebird, Blue-naped Parrot and Colasisi, the smallest parrot in the Philippines. We got close looks at the Philippine Tailorbird, one of the few birds that we found in the mid or lower canopy, as most species were seen at the treetops.

Upon reaching the crest of the knoll, we took a break in the heat, and saw a couple of Purple Needletails darting over the abandoned helipad. Descending back down the trail, a few of us saw a pair of majestic Philippine Crested Serpent-Eagles circling high overhead, the only raptor at this location and were enamored with a number of butterflies including Lorquin’s Satyr (above).

A highlight was visiting a large roost of about 500 fruit bats (above) clustered in the trees along the road outside of town. These included Golden-crowned Fruit Bats and Philippine Flying Foxes constantly flapping and making noise. They exploded in flight en masse when a Brahminy Kite flew overhead.

We traversed a section of the Nasaban Road through rich dense broadleaf, enjoying panoramic views and a nice selection of avian species. There were a number of Philippine Bulbuls, 3 Blue-naped Parrots and several Coletos (above), a large myna showing a diagnostic, pinkish-colored bald head. Richard spotted a large White-bellied Woodpecker that flew across the road and landed in a tree. Pigeons and Doves were well-represented with Green Imperial-Pigeons, Pompadour Green-Pigeon and Common Emerald Doves.