The PHILIPPINES: Luzon, the Largest Island – Part 1

We spent 3 full days of our Philipines fam tour exploring Luzon, the largest island, and home to the capitol city of Manila. Most of the country’s mountainous islands are covered in tropical rainforest and volcanic in origin. Driving in and out of the traffic-congested metropolitan area provided ample opportunity for us to ogle the contemporary architecture, colorful “Jeepneys” (Manila’s public main transportation), and enterprising “Walter Mart” department stores.

Our first morning we explored Mount Makiling Forest Reserve (above), situated about 65km southeast of Manila. This patch of mid-elevation, broadleaf forest is home to a good number of Luzon specialties, of which we saw a few (it is possible to get 50 endemics in a day here, during peak season). We are here during the avian breeding season, and just before the onset of the summer rains. We enjoyed a pleasant, albeit extremely humid walk, following an abandoned, spacious road through the forest. The first bird we had was a White-browed Shama, singing conspicuously from his relatively low perch; one of few birds we got without craning our necks! We also found Bar-bellied Cuckoo-shrike, Luzon Tarictic Hornbill, Philippine Pygmy Woodpecker, and several Balicassiaos, a black flycatcher in the Drongo family. A gorgeous Spotted Wood-Kingfisher posed in the mid-canopy over our heads. We got good looks at White-eared Brown-Dove, a relatively common, woodland, endemic species.

A short driving distance away, we stopped at the lush tropical Botanical Gardens, featuring an impressive selection of riverine and interior forest habitats. Here in an open forest clearing we found several diminutive Philippine Falconets, one feeding on a lizard, and others hawking insects. We got great looks at a Guaiabero (above), a small, green chunky parrot that was quietly feeding in a fruiting tree, and a flaming Sunbird nearby. A Common Yellow Birdwing butterfly was attracted to the Lantana plants.

We spent an afternoon and a few morning hours at Villa Escudero, a private plantation/resort which provides sanctuary to many avian species, along with stands of coconut and a museum full of Philippine artifacts. Odd, lifesize statues were dotted around, depicting traditional daily life of native peoples. Bob and Dave opted for the experience of riding on a cart pulled by carabao (water buffalo).

The main attraction was a dining facility literally in the river, with fast-running water swirling beneath the table legs. With our feet cooling in the water, we sipped refreshing drinks and watched an Indigo Banded Kingfisher (above) hunting in the shadows of the overhanging branches.

The grounds was a great place to learn the common species such as the ubiquitous Eurasian Tree Sparrow, Yellow-vented Bulbul (above), Oriental Magpie-Robin, Pied Fantail, Glossy Swiftlet, Pacific Swallow and White-breasted Wood-Swallow. We also saw White-collared Kingfisher, Lowland White-eye, Philippine Coucal, Pied Triller, Purple-throated Sunbird and Grey-backed Tailorbird. After some effort we were rewarded with great looks at a pair of Elegant Tits.

The resort owner, Carmela, an enthusiastic new birder, was working hard to establish a small wetland area on the property, already successful in attracting White-browed Crake, Watercock, Cinnamon Bittern and Barred Rail. A nearby short grass habitat hosted Richard’s Pipit, Striated Grassbird, Buff-banded Rail (above) and Button Quail.