ANTARCTICA: First Landfall – Livingston Island

Land… I see land! BING-BANG-Bong… “Good morning everybody good morning,” our expedition leader’s voice boomed. The water was calm. It was overcast and a balmy 30 degrees fahrenheit. No wind, thank goodness! We devoured a buffet breakfast and prepared for our first zodiac boat launch to Livingston Island.

Gentoo Penguins were the first to greet us here… and we would come to know this species very well as we found them at nearly every landing hereafter. They waddled down the hill toward the sea where we had parked our boats, barely giving us a glance as they sauntered by.

As we climbed the hill we found a large gathering of Chinstrap Penguins. It was post breeding season, however, many young and adult were molting and could not yet go out to sea. They murmured and croaked as we enjoyed their presence… now and then one would let off a donkey like call that would then be echoed by another and maybe another.

Alongside the Chinstraps lay two Elephant Seals, barely moving as they wallowed in a muddy, brown pit on the cliff high above the sea. How did these behemoths climb up here?

A face only a mother could love… this Elephant Seal looks as though it has been through quite a bit! They barely budged the whole time we viewed and photographed them.

The Antarctic Fur Seals, on the other hand, were very skittish and kept their distance. Many years of being hunted, I presume, has caused this behavior. During the 18th and 19th centuries, Fur Seals were hunted nearly to extinction. In the early 1900’s only one small population, in South Georgia, was known. In the past century, however, their numbers have rebounded quite well!

A wonderful surprise were two pair of Macaroni Penguins that had left the sea to most. They posed amonst the Chin Strap penguins with barely a quiver. Typically found further north, we had not expected to see them here.

Indeed a productive morning on our very first day in the Antarctic region! Now back to the boat for lunch as we motor to our next stop… Deception Island!