TANZANIA 2010: The 8th Wonder of the World – part 1

By late afternoon we had reached the end of the tarmac at the newly constructed entrance gate to the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. From here we began our ascent, winding our way for 4 miles through the dense Northern Highland Forest Reserve towards the Ngorongoro Crater rim. The crater is set within a forested mountain range of ancient volcanos that is surrounded by the Serengeti Plains to the north and west, and the Eastern Rift Valley to the east.

The Crater Viewpoint (above) greets us upon reaching the rim. At 7270 feet above sea level, we had a breath-taking view of the world’s largest unbroken caldera. At its widest point it is about 14 miles across and covers an area of approximately 95 square miles. The crater floor lies about 1600 feet below and from our vantage point the view into the abyss is simply stunning, even if it was overcast. The major features – three wetlands and a forest – Lake Magadi, Gorigor Swamp, Mandusi Swamp and the Lerai Forest are surrounded by open grasslands dotted with herds of wildebeest, buffalo and elephants. Standing on the rim it is easy to see how this natural spectacle is known as the eighth wonder of the world.

Before leaving the viewpoint, we had Olive Pigeons and Mountain Thrushes flying around us; Montane White-eye and a Yellow-bellied Waxbill perching briefly on the slope below us, and Grey-headed Negrofinch along with a pair of Oriole Finches (above) feeding in a fruit tree.

As dawn broke (above) a blanket of fog cloaked the eastern rim and crater floor. Hunter’s Cisticolas could be heard and Southern Citril, Dusky Turtle-Dove, Bronzed Sunbird, Ruppell’s Robin-Chat and Thick-billed Seedeaters were conspicuous around the Serena grounds. There was a nip in the air as we drove the 5 miles through patches of fog to the Seneto Gate. Areas of montane grassland produced Malachite Sunbird as well as displaying Red-naped and Jackson’s Widowbirds.

The steep Seneto descent road meant that we were able to take our time and pick out Yellow Bishop, Blackcap, White-headed Barbet, White-naped Raven, Black-crowned Tchagra, Schalow’s Wheatear, Northern Anteater Chat and Grey-capped Warbler before reaching the crater floor.

Once inside the crater there is a special feeling of awe knowing that so much life exists within this isolated and unique wilderness. A year round supply of water allows the wildlife to come and go as they please. Small herds of the larger mammals – Wildebeest, Buffalo, Zebra, Eland and Coke’s Hartebeest – were clearly visible scattered throughout the shorter grasslands, while mixed groups of Thomson’s and Grant’s Gazelles were often seen resting.

However there were a few individuals amongst them keeping an eye out for predators!

As we drove the tracks through the grasslands Rufous-naped Larks were conspicuous as they sang from prominent rock vantage points besides the road. Dozens of Yellow Wagtails would take off and return to the short grass to feed. Both Yellow-billed and Red-billed Oxpeckers were hitching rides from zebras and buffalos in exchange for a meal of parasites. Harrier’s teetered over the savanna given us a chance to work out their identification. Scores and scores of White Storks descended from the skies and joined their smaller cousins Abdim’s to roam the taller grasses. Kori Bustard’s strut these grasslands with all the confidence of an elder statesmen, while a Black-bellied Bustard played a lesser but no less important role, trying to attract a female. He was not the only one, as a gorgeous Rosy-throated Longclaw (above) was in full song ignoring the paparazzi only feet away.

It is a shame that there is not a track that takes us closer to the Lesser Flamingos that line Lake Magadi. However, scope views were more than adequate and we got to see diminutive Hottentot Teal, Gull-billed Terns and the beautiful common inland gull, Grey-headed Gull. Around the Hippo Pool at Mandusi Swamp a congregation of Blacksmith Plovers loafed about as we watched a Malachite Kingfisher, Black Crake, Little Rush Warbler and Long-toed Plover amongst the reeds. Several Fan-tailed Widowbirds (above) flew between favorite display perches and there was a trifecta of herons – Grey, Black-headed and the solitary Purple.