KENYA: The Tsavo’s …..East

The dry savanna dominates much of Tsavo East, though most of grass was tall and green as a result of a successful short rainy season. Entering via the Manyuni Gate we soon saw Eastern Paradise Whydah (above) in display flight, Grasshopper Buzzard, Olive-tree Warblers, the first of many Buff-crested Bustards and a flock of male Somali Ostrich. Along one section of brush we hit a pocket of species that included Golden-breasted Bunting, Golden Pipit, Pale Prinia, Pringle’s Puffback, Grey Wren Warbler and D’Arnaud’s Barbet.

At Mudanda Rock (above) we alighted to walk to the top of this long flat ridge, where two days previously a group had walked to the crest only to find eleven lions laying on the rock – a slow retreat, walking backwards followed! We were fortunate, or maybe not as lucky, instead our excitement came in the form of two Peregrines flying around us and having fun chasing a Greenshank. An African Marsh Harrier was also seen quartering the savanna below us.

Heading south we came across yet another Grasshopper Buzzard though this one was a sub adult. A Pangani Longclaw was perched up on a grass stem and two Eurasian Hoopoe kept their distance from the vehicle walking ahead of us. Nearly all the Elephants we saw were the color of the soil – red – including those that were enjoying a healthy mud bath (above).

Maybe it was the mid afternoon hours but walking the vicinity around Ndoloolo was slow with the best sightings being Pearl-spotted Owlets and a Pygmy Batis. We were advised to leave the area when a bull Elephant began to announce that he was on his way towards us! The River Circuit produced a wonderful a patch of birds including many Golden-breasted Starlings and Golden Pipits. A Rufous Bush-Chat (above) showed well as did a few Rufous Chatterers that walked across the track, and a pair of roosting African Hawk-Eagles.

Kanderi Swamp (above) was rather quiet with dozens of large pachyderms, Grey-headed Sparrow and Fischer’s Starling.

Aruba Dam on the other hand was full of water with African Spoonbills and an assortment of shorebirds and ducks lining the waters edge. A Savannah Monitor was in the water and Common Waterbuck, along with a herd of Elephants ventured in to drink. Thousands of Open-billed Storks (above)  staged between this site and the nearby windmill pond.

The short grass plains near the dam was anything but short! Consequently, much of the expected avian activity had dispersed well beyond this area. A flock of nine Caspian Plovers (above) were found foraging along the airstrip, where many nervous Chestnut-backed Sparrow-Larks would alight for a short period before taking off and dropping back down to feed. This is good habitat for larks and we had the good fortune to find White-tailed Lark, Sing Bush Larks, as well as several Red-winged Larks. For a large bird it certainly has a wimpy song! There was the briefest glimpse of a Common Quail before it vanished in a flash into the thick grass. Both Taita Fiscal and Tsavo Bush-shrike, two arid shrike species, were far more cooperative, perching in the open for all to see.

On the grounds of the Ashnil Lodge we encountered White-throated Bee-eaters (above) actively feeding on wasps! While tracking down a Northern Brownbul we came across an Icterine Warbler and an unexpected calling Great Reed Warbler.

Returning to our lodge at dusk we drew a small crowd of inquisitive onlookers, as we watched Tomb Bats leaving the enclave of the gift shop eaves.