FLORIDA: Arriving at the Dry Tortugas

It certainly was an interesting start to our journey out of Key West to the Dry Tortugas. We had hardly gotten out of the harbor, aboard the 63 foot “Tiburon” (above), when we had to change course as the seas were too rough. The winds had picked up from the south and for the first half of the trip we were under overcast skies with the occasional spritz. Instead of heading out into the Gulf Stream we hugged the bay side, sailing inside the remaining keys that lie west of Key West. Consequently our journey was far more tolerable.

After a good nights sleep and a light breakfast most of us were on the upper level, gently rolling from side to side, as we watched numerous immature Northern Gannets (above) landing near the boat. At Ellis Rock we picked up our first Sandwich and Royal Terns to go along with the many Least Terns that we passed leaving Key West. It was a great tern day as we encountered a feeding flock of eight Roseate Terns and came across a few more on Rebecca Tower. To my surprise we had a single Bridled Tern cross our bow close to East Key, which is the nearest I have ever seen them to the Dry Tortugas.

Brown Boobies (above) have become a common sight in recent years for those that spend time watching these seas. They also test ones identification skills, which when seen relatively close soon becomes less challenging.

After a year nesting on Middle Key, the Masked Boobies have returned to raise their chicks on the small sand-coral island of Hospital Key (above). We slowed the boat to a crawl and circled as close to the island as we could. Most boobies were just standing there, but there was one individual that flew out to sea and dove in with lightening speed and precision, to make a catch and return back to the colony.

After an eight hour journey we dropped anchor in the harbor on the southern side of Garden Key. Fort Jefferson (above) and what remained of yesterday’s fallout beckoned. We took the zodiac in for our first wet landing and marveled at the Magnificent Frigatebirds that hung above the forts eastern side.

The noise coming from the hundred thousand strong tern colony on Bush Key (above) was not only loud enough to hear, but pleasantly unobtrusive – music to our ears – it made for the perfect soundtrack to these magical seven islands.

It is always exciting to check out the campground and fort environs as soon as we set foot on Garden Key. Though I would estimate that ninety percent of yesterdays birds had taken full advantage of the overnight southerly winds and headed to points north, there was still myriad species for us find. One first warbler was a Worm-eating followed by a Chestnut-sided (above), both feeding feet away away from us and at times too close to focus our cameras! This was followed by a Tennessee and we knew that this afternoon it was all going to be good. American Redstarts were the most common with over half a dozen including young males was black splotches.

A couple of Ovenbirds (above) goose-stepped their way through the buttonwood leaf litter in the campground. Black-throated Blue, Common Yellowthroat, Northern Waterthrush, Black-and-white and Blackpoll all put in an appearance at the fountain in the parade grounds. Including a few Yellow Warblers there were 11 warbler species.

The fruiting Gumbo Limbo tree in the southwestern corner of the fort proved to exceedingly popular with the vireos – all three, Red-eyed, White-eyed and Black-whiskered repeatedly made forays to feed. Baltimore Orioles, Catbirds and a male Rose-breasted Grosbeak joined in. We found a nighthawk species (above) roosting on a cross branch, which began the discussion as to whether is was a Common or Antillean – it would only be decided if we heard it call!

A few swallows remained, with those that still had energy, Northern Rough-wing and Barn, flying around the upper level of the fort. A nice surprise was seeing a lone Chimney Swift joining them. Sadly the Bank Swallows did not fair as well with a few unable to continue the long route from South America to the northern hemisphere.

Several thrush species showed well, mostly feeding on the lawn in the shade of Buttonwood trees in the Parade Grounds (above). We followed a couple of Blue Grosbeaks and a dozen skittish Yellow-billed Cuckoo all of whom would never sit still long enough to view through the scope. Maybe it was the Merlin or immature Peregrine that patrolled the fort that had them on edge?