BRAZIL 2011: A bit of Chapada

Day 1 / August 11 – Amazing birds, spectacular scenery, delicious food and delightful company all came together to create a wonderful two-week trip to Brazil’s Southern Amazon and Pantanal regions this August.

Having all met up in Miami for our overnight flight to Brazilia, we arrived in Cuiaba, the capitol of the state of Mato Grosso, in mid-morning, and drove 65kms north for a taste of birding around Chapada das Guimaraes.  The word Chapada means steep cliffs at the edge of a plateau, and we admired the impressive scenery (above) as our vehicle downshifted to negotiate some steep, windy roads through the region. 

After a delicious buffet lunch at the Casarin in the town square, we were energized for a 3-hour bird walk in ‘Vale da Bencao.’  Walking slowly along the wooded dirt road (above) we got our first looks of some common species, as well as regional specialties.

Our expert Brazilian guide Eduardo did not miss anything, and soon our list included White-wedged Piculet, Amazon Motmot (above) which was recently split from Blue-crowned, Masked Tityra, Streaked Flycatcher, Blue Dacnis, Streaked Xenops, Black-fronted Nunbird, Yellow-rumped Cacique, Blue-crowned Trogon, male Plain Antvireo, Yellow-olive Flycatcher, Chestnut-eared Aracari, Southern Beardless Tyrannulet, Forest Eleania, and Squirrel Cuckoo. 

White-lined, Silver-beaked and Sayaca were the first of many tanager species accumulated on the trip and a male Rufous-tailed Jacamar (above) with its distinct white throat showed well.

The forest eventually gave way to a clearing with broad views.  A family of 4 Yellow-tufted Woodpeckers (above) chased each other noisily atop one snag, and a Chalk-browed Mockingbird perched on another as our eyes were directed overhead to a Short-tailed Hawk in flight.

Hummingbirds buzzed actively around a cluster of trees adjacent to a stream, including White-chinned Sapphire, Fork-tailed Woodnymph, and impressive Swallow-tailed Hummingbirds.  We saw Rusty-margined Flycatcher, Yellow-bellied Eleania, Little Woodpecker, Thrush-like Wren, Saffron-billed Sparrow and a pair of Great Antshrikes flitting through shrubs.  Buff-throated Saltator, White-vented Violet-Ear and Little Tinamou were 3 species seen only in this location, the latter walking quietly along the forest floor just a few feet from the road.

We had time for a brief stop along the Agua Frio road (above) before the sun set too low to see.  This dusty road bisected typical cerrado habitat of low, scrubby foliage supporting wide biodiversity.  Cerrado habitat has become one of the most threatened ecosystems in Brazil, under pressure from agricultural activities and development. 

Despite low light and dust from occasional passing vehicles, we were able to focus on flocks of Black-throated Saltators, Red-crested Finches and a few Blue-black Grassquits.  We found several White-banded Tanagers (above), a Chapada specialty and species in decline.

Today’s sightings of Erato Longwing, Four-spotted Sailor and the stunning Starry Night Cracker (above) marked the beginning of a great list of butterflies on our trip!

After a long day of travel and birding most of us dozed during the drive back to Cuiaba, and spent a comfortable night at the Hotel Fazenda Mato Grosso.