AUSTRALIA: QUEENSLAND, Atherton Tablelands

Platypus

Sept 25: Yesterday, we had just the briefest glimpse of one of Australia’s most elusive animals, the Platypus.  Today, at first light, Keith, the tall British owner of Kingfisher Park, led us back to the stream, where we were delighted to see the shy, amphibious creature swim silently past us.  A fantastic start to another day on our ‘Down Under’ tour!

Metallic Starling nesting colony

Keith continued guiding us on a walk through the grounds.  We observed myriad nesting activity, which was no surprise, as our trip occurred at the beginning of Australia’s spring, and birds were focused on following the age-old instinct to reproduce.  We watched a Pale Yellow Robin work on its nest, situated head height on a small fork in a tree.  In a stark contrast of nesting behavior, a pair of Orange-footed Scrubfowl were engaged in their daily ritualistic maintenance and thermal control of their large-size nest mound, well established along a dirt road.  Noisy, colony-nesting Metallic Starlings were busy adding final touches to their nests in several eucalyptus trees. Keith told us that the large colony had recently split up, and we were observing a new one.

Forest Kingfisher

A Blue-winged Kookaburra, one of several on the property, alighted and posed for us on a tree. Gorgeous Forest Kingfishers surveyed for their morning meal from elevated perches. Amongst the many colorful Rainbow Lorikeets feeding in the eucalyptus, we picked out plainer-looking Scaly-breasted Lorikeets by their green heads, both species being highly sociable. We got the desired views of Spotted Catbird, and some saw a Scarlet Honeyeater as it fed on a flowering bottlebrush.

Atherton Plateau

Leaving Kingfisher Park, we traveled south to Rose Gums Wilderness Retreat in the Atherton Tablelands.  The landscape within this fertile rolling plateau, about 2000 feet above sea level, was reminiscent of parts of northern Europe. Patches of relic rainforest and dry eucalyptus were interspersed between dairy farms and agricultural plots growing sugarcane, mangos, peanuts, bananas and coffee.

Great Bowerbird at bower

We made the first of many stops at the Julateen State School. Australian Swiftlets flew overhead, while Yellow, Blue-faced and Yellow-faced Honeyeater moved about the flowering trees.  We located a Great Bowerbird, the largest member of it’s family, along with its impressive bower under a shrub.  This bower, the largest construction of the bowerbirds, spans a 2-foot long corridor, with sides made of sticks. The entrance was covered in small grey materials, mostly small squares of matted fabric, with a few bits of broken glass adding decoration.  In this fascinating structure, the Great Bowerbird displays to attract a mate.

Pied Monarch

We stopped at Sides Road to look for Blue-faced Parrot-finch amongst grasses adjacent to cane fields and a small copse. The Parrot-finch eluded us, but we did well to see the aptly-named Superb Fruit Dove, and a very confiding Pacific Baza sitting on a branch over the track. Assorted insect eaters included Yellow-breasted Boatbill, Pied and Spectacled Monarch, Grey Whistler, Little Shrike-thrush and Lovely Fairy-wren, its female showing prominent blue ear-coverts.

At Abattoir Swamp we walked out to the bird hide (bird blind), with nothing to view beyond. Around the hide, however, honeyeaters were quite conspicuous, including Brown, White-cheeked, White-throated, and a Yellow Honeyeater on a nest.  In the car park, we spotted a female Red-winged Parrot, blending perfectly into the landscape.

Australian Bustard

We searched for our next target, the Australian Bustard, in a completely different habitat – grasslands interspersed with eucalyptus forest. This nomadic species, one of the heaviest flying birds, has been steadily declining, and it took a good deal of scanning to find one.  We finally located a male walking almost head height in the grasses of the tropical savannah around Maryfarms West Road. Diamond Doves and a Golden-headed Cisticola were also seen in this area.

At a roadside cafe in Mt. Malloy, we ordered sandwiches and drinks, and enjoyed picnicking at a local park a block away.  Once a prosperous gold mining town, Mt. Malloy is now a small outpost with just a few necessary stores.  We were grateful that one of them offered lunch on this gorgeous day.

Brolgas

Just outside the town of Atherton lies a large seasonal wetland within Hastie’s Swamp National Park. The tablelands supports an important population of Sarus and endemic Brolga Cranes. Both of these species were on show, feeding in a newly-plowed field. From the second floor of a two-story hide, we scoped numerous ducks, Eurasian Coots, Hardheads, Grey Teal and hundreds of Plumed Whistling Ducks lining the edge of the mudflats.

Jungle Carpet Python

We reached Rose Gums Wilderness Retreat at dusk, and were warmly greeted by our hosts Peta and Jon. Our group’s accommodation was spread throughout the grounds, which featured intimate pole-and-timber treehouses built by Jon, each named for a bird species. Upon opening the door to the abode I was sharing with co-guide, Barry, and switching on the light, Barry calmly stated, “There is a python at your feet.” Indeed, a 5-foot long Jungle Carpet Python was laid out at our feet on the door mat! I wondered if anyone else in our group had such an exciting encounter!

We enjoyed an excellent dinner on the outdoor deck, and anticipated another exciting day to come in Australia.

all photos © adrian binns