AUSTRALIA: TASMANIA, Bruny Island Cruise

Oct 11:  We awoke to another lovely, brisk morning on Bruny Island, off the southeast coast of Tasmania.  It was bittersweet, as today was our last day of birding, the end of an expansive avian tour of Australia.  We began exploring the flowering eucalyptus trees behind the porches of our Cottages, seeking better views of some previously-seen species.

Yellow Wattlebird

Green Rosellas flew in and disappeared amongst the vegetation, and a flock of 3 Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoos landed at the treetops, pausing for us to see them before moving on.   Many of us desired better views of the attractive Crescent Honeyeater, but it proved difficult to locate in the trees, despite hearing it singing. A Yellow Wattlebird was far more cooperative. There were plenty of Black-headed Honeyeaters traveling in small flocks, and a pair of Yellow-throated Honeyeaters chasing each other around.

We returned to the Mavista area and walked along Resolution Road in search of Tasmanian Scrubwren and Scrubtit, the two Tasmanian endemics that we still needed. The piercing call of the Black Currawong echoed through the forest, sounding like an off-tune ambulance siren. Grey Fantails were common, as we focused our attention on chip notes and contact calls we could  hear in the undergrowth. We got our hopes up as a bird appeared, but it was a Tasmanian Thornbill. Still, we could see movement, which led us to a Tasmanian Scrubwren!  A Strong-billed Honeyeater showed well, but we did not find the Scrubtit.

At midday, most of us opted to take a 3-hour boat ride along the unspoilt rugged coastline of Bruny Island to Cape Bruny. It was a gorgeous day to go to sea, and the boat was filled to capacity with 50 passengers.  Each of us was given long, red, waterproof coats, and strapped in for a fast ride.  Andre, captain of the appropriately-named “Shearwater,” was in fine form, entertaining and informative.

We pushed out of Adventure Bay accompanied by Black-faced Cormorants, Sooty Oystercatcher, Kelp Gulls, and a flyover White-bellied Sea Eagle.  Our course followed the coastline south stopping at sea caves, and passing the tall slender sea stack called The Monument.  We admired the towering dolomite cliffs, including the 2nd highest sea cliff in the southern hemisphere at 272 meters. It was along these cliffs that Andre pointed out a Peregrine Falcon’s nest on a ledge.

Soon we saw the first of tens of thousands of Short-tailed Shearwaters flying low over the water.

As we neared the tip of Cape Bruny, about 25km into our journey, the seas got higher and we were rolling up and down. At the base of island outcroppings we saw dozens of Australian Fur Seals lazing on the rocks, unconcerned with the rough water.

There was great excitement when a Shy Albatross appeared, easily distinguished by it’s massive size and super-long wings. It glided effortlessly with the wind, rapidly covering long distances, and causing great excitement each time it crossed the bow of our boat. On the return journey, we spotted several dozen Common Diving Petrels on the water – small, stocky, dove-sized seabirds. Three Australasian Gannet rounded out an excellent pelagic trip.

Pam and John, who had opted to stay on land with Barry, saw several Australasian Gannets offshore, as well as two Echidnas on a walk through nearby woodlands.

While some of our group relaxed back at the Cottages, Joy, Marie, Anna Marie, Ginger, Barry and I headed south through the lush emerald forests of South Bruny to visit the Cape Bruny Lighthouse. This is the second oldest lighthouse in Australia, as well as the longest continuously-operating one, from 1838-1996. Views of the coastline were spectacular from the grounds of the lighthouse.

Around the parking area we found a family of White-fronted Chats, Dusky Robin, and a very cooperative Superb Fairywren.  We even found a beautiful lizard called a Mountain Dragon.

For our last dinner we returned to the Bruny Hotel were we celebrated Peggy’s birthday, and reminisced about our superb three-week tour of Australia, in which we completely circumvented Australia’s extensive coast, found 360 bird species, and enjoyed many wonderful birding and wildlife experiences.

The following morning we packed up and headed to Hobart to begin the long journey back to the U.S.  I extend my deep appreciation and gratitude to Barry Davies for his wonderful, expert local guiding skills, and to all the group participants who made this trip extraordinarily special.
all photos © adrian binns