MOROCCO: Zagora to Merzouga

December 8 – Our adventures in southern Morocco continued this morning with an early departure from Zagora, driving north then east to eventually reach another part of the Sahara Desert.

Barbary Falcon

Within a half-hour of driving, Mustapha spotted a perched raptor on a distant electric tower – our first Barbary Falcon! A few minutes later we spotted another one perched closer. We watched as it soared off it’s perch towards some village buildings, scaring up a flock of sparrows and pigeons. It took aim at something, as we saw a poof of feathers, but returned back to it’s same perch with empty talons.

Hoopoe

Tall palms and green vegetation clustered along the Oued Draa (Draa River) in the Vallee du Draa, hosting a small variety of arid loving species as well as village farm plots. At the edge of a small village we stopped to observe a family group of 5 Hoopoes landing on ledges and chasing each other through palms. We noted the now-familiar Common Bulbul, White Wagtail, Blue Rock Thrush and Maghreb Blackbirds. During the 70 km drive from Zagora to the main turn east, we counted 23 White-crowned Wheatears and 8 Desert Grey Shrikes perched on acacia trees.

wadi and desert landscape

After the eastward turn towards Tizourine, we left the Draa River behind, and travelled through slightly different desert habitat. Hemmed in by mountain plateaus to the north and south, we crossed several dry wadis and rocky plains colored olive brown and rust. Bar-tailed Larks flew low across the road. Beyond the medium-size town of N’Kob, a Common Stonechat perched on a roadside shrub, and our count of White-crowned Wheatears was slowing a bit. Bright green squares of several well-irrigated agricultural plots contrasted sharply with the arid rocky landscape.

Lanner Falcon

We spotted our first of several Lanner Falcons perched on a high tower, markedly paler than the Barbary Falcon. A Common Kestrel flew low over our vehicle a little while later. Desert raptors feed on small birds, rodents, grasshoppers and lizards, and we marveled that there were enough resources to sustain these creatures amidst this harsh, dry habitat.

Trumpeter Finch

We pulled over to get closer looks at 2 or 3 Trumpeter Finches pecking on small shrubs in a wadi. A Tristram’s Warbler appeared in a nearby acacia tree, along with a ubiquitous White-crowned Wheatear. We stepped carefully to avoid squashing a fuzzy, yellow caterpillar inching along the stony ground near our parked vehicle. With tall two-toned spines on his back and head, it would likely turn into a moth.

Watching over a dozen martins circling around a steep cliffside, we concluded that most of them were Rock Martins with a few Crag Martins. In a nearby acacia tree we spotted a pair of Chiffchaffs darting around. We observed a second pair of Lanner Falcons, these ones dive-bombing a Long-legged Buzzard perched on an electric tower; the buzzard didn’t budge from his post.

As a change from our daily tailgate lunch of bread, olives, cheese and tomatoes, we stopped at a colorfully signed hotel/restaurant in Rissani. The concept of restaurants is broadly defined in Morocco, and we had concerns about the availability of food and speed of service. Any worries disappeared when the smiling waiter quickly brought bread and drinks to us on the outdoor front patio. Soon we were devouring a savory tajine of eggs and vegetables, and a delicious cold salad platter of fresh, sliced tomatoes, cucumbers, carrots and red onions in vinegar.

Pharoah Eagle Owl

After such a delicious lunch we were ready to continue birding. First, we detoured a few kilometers north of town to meet-up with Brahim, a young, local birder who agreed to guide us in this region. He left his bike with a friend and jumped in our vehicle to take us to a known spot where Pharoah’s Eagle Owl roosts. Adrian remembered the location from previous trips, and put a scope on the bird almost immediately. Tucked in a long vertical crevice in the shadow of a sheer rock cliff, the Eagle Owl gazed at us with one eye closed. It looked small against such a huge, looming background, but we knew it stood majestically over 2 feet tall.

Spotted Sandgrouse

Brahim then led us to a new place, a wide stoney bowl with a large sandy island of scraggly low plains foliage, framed by jagged rock walls. A Maghreb Wheatear perched close by, as we got out of the vehicle and walked along the sandy terrain. A flock of Spotted Sandgrouse flushed and flew across the bowl, calling distinctively before settling down on the other side. Brahim assured us we could approach closer by car than foot, so we drove the distance to find them. Indeed, we got remarkably close, allowing for great photos of these striking ground-foragers.

Kasbah Derkaoua

We spent this night and the next at Auberge Derkaoua, an oasis surrounded by desert, is located 20 km east of Rissani. This lovely hotel features attractive landscaping, comfortable rooms, and delicious meals. Friendly staff arrange any services desired, including camel rides, and 4×4 excursions into the desert. It attracts some famous patrons, and served as part of the movie set for Highlander II.

text © debbie beer; all photos © adrian binns