DOMINICAN REPUBLIC – Sierra de Bahoruco, Zapoten; Lago Enriquillo

Day 3 / Feb 7 – Our exploration of the Dominican Republic continued on day 3, starting well before dawn to climb high into the mountain range of Sierra de Bahoruco National Park.  Though the total distance is less than 70 kms, it took nearly 3 hours to negotiate the steep, rocky, limestone-covered road in our four-wheel drive vehicle, to arrive by daybreak.  We were within a few meters of the Haitian border, and passed through 4 checkpoints along the way, wakening the guards to let us through!

Road to Zapoten on the Haitian-Dominican Republic border

The distinction between the two countries was evident by the forest clear-cutting in Haiti, and tropical forest remaining in the Dominican Republic.  It was remarkable to see such a distinct line stretching as far as the eye could see along the rolling terrain – one side with trees, the other just brown earth dotted with tree stumps.  The establishment of National Parks in the Dominican Republic helps protect natural resources that are under tremendous pressure from local people and foreign interests.  Driving through the park before dawn with the windows down, we could hear a Hispaniolan Nightjar. This northern slope habitat of montane deciduous broadleaf, rising to evergreen cloud forest, hosts several high-elevation endemics.

La Selle Thrush

As the first hints of light showed some avian activity, we stopped near Zapoten, at an elevation of 1600 meters.  Our target was the rare, endangered La Selle Thrush, only discovered in the Dominican Republic 40 years ago. We soon saw one foraging in short grasses along the roadside.  We approached very quietly and slowly to get good looks, as it would move a few feet, pause, then resume feeding.  Within an hour of dawn, these birds would disappear into the undergrowth  and vanish into the forest.  A Bicknell’s Thrush was also foraging in the same area, preferring to stay on the dirt road.  Several skulking Western Chat-Tanagers were coaxed into view in the undergrowth, as best as we could see them.

Hispaniolan Highland-Tanager

We didn’t have to walk far, as the birds kept coming to us.  Green-tailed Ground-Tanagers showed well, looking very much like warblers. A small flock of pretty Hispaniolan Highland-Tanagers worked their way across the road and up the slope deeper into the forest.  A male Hispaniolan Emerald checked all the flowers along the edge the edge of the road, pausing to preen on open bare branches.  A pair of Greater Antillean Bullfinches emerged from dense vegetation to pose for a moment, the male striking in black and red plumage.  Red-legged Thrushes outnumbered either of the two more secretive thrushes we had seen, while another member of the thrush family, Rufous-throated Solitaire, was heard giving lovely haunting whistle calls all around us.

We got our first look at a Greater Antillean Eleania as it perched in the open.  A Red-tailed Hawk soared overhead, lingering in the forest interior, in contrast with familiar U.S. Red-tails that habituate suburbs, cities and highway edges.

Black-crowned Palm-Tanager

Heading back down the mountain we enjoyed a nice mixed flock that featured Black-crowned Palm-Tanager, Hispaniolan Spindalis, Hispaniolan Pewee and Narrow-billed Tody, foraging amongst overhanging roadside vegetation.  We scoped a distant, calling Antillean Euphonia, and located a Bay-breasted Cuckoo watching us.

We returned to Duverge for lunch at Corpita Moquette.  It was a true “home-cooked meal” as the tiny place had just one table set between some buildings, and the delicious chicken, rice and beans were cooked, peeled and washed out in the open in front of us.

View of Lago Enriquillo from Bahoruco NP

After our meal, we drove a short distance to Lago Enriquillo, the largest lake in the Caribbean, situated 40 meters below sea level. Since 2007, the water levels of this saline lake have risen considerably to cover adjacent land and kill surrounding palm trees.  Along the southern shore of this vast, surreal wetlands landscape, we saw Great and Snowy Egrets, Tricolored and Little Blue Herons, Laughing Gull, Royal and Sandwich Terns, and Osprey.  The lake is ringed by dry thorny mesquite scrubland, and in the heat of the afternoon we could not locate our target Hispaniolan Palm Crows, settling for Broad-billed Todies that never cease their flying sorties for food.

Broad-billed Tody

We made a stop at Laguna Limon, a lovely marsh set among the scrubland where a number of Caribbean Coot chased each other. We heard a Sora while finding Common Gallinules,  American Wigeon, Ruddy Duck, Pied-billed Grebe, Green Heron and a Least Bittern.  We pished in a flock of about two dozen warblers amongst mesquite trees including Northern Parula, Ovenbird, American Redstart, Common Yellowthroat, Northern Waterthrush, Prairie and Palm Warblers, as well as Broad-billed Tody!

By late afternoon the heat had dropped to the mid-nineties, and we had a little better chance of finding our target crows. Luck was with us when we heard them calling, then spotted 9 Hispaniolan Palm Crows flying overhead.  Mission accomplished we drove back to Barahona, having now seen 23 endemics, and enjoyed a well-earned meal after a long day of successful birding.

all photos © adrian binns