BRAZIL 2011: Sparkling Waters of the Amazon

Day 5 / August 15 – Some of today’s most memorable moments were experienced on the sparkling rivers of the Amazon Rainforest.  After the usual early breakfast, and a quick study of the Blackish Nightjar roosting on terra cotta roof tiles, we boarded our familiar boat and pointed upstream.  The sights and sounds of the jungle wrapped us in delight, as we motored through Cristalino River’s sparkling waters. 

Avian activity held our attention everywhere we looked, including Gray-headed Kite, Channel-billed Toucan, Razor-billed Curassow (above), juvenile Great Black Hawk, Rufescent Tiger-Heron, Striated Heron and the always-interesting Sunbitterns.  Swallows and puffbirds swooped overhead, while caiman and capybara moved through the shadows of the riverbanks.

A small flock of Red-throated Piping Guans (above) were standing on some large boulders in the water, eyeing us as we pulled over and disembarked onto a relatively open clearing.  Two of the birds flew closer, landing in a small grove of cecropias.  We explored this open area along the Brazil Nut Trail for about one-and-a-half hours, seeing some lovely birds.

A pair of Brown Jacamars (above), one with a freshly caught moth, perched conspicuously near a shrubby hedgerow that held Glossy Antshrike, Gray-chested Greenlet, Buff-breasted Wren and Yellow- bellied Dacnis. A Little Cuckoo gave us fits as we would only get brief glimpses of it in flight. We would also come across Chestnut-backed Antshrike, Straight-billed Woodcreeper and Rufous-browed Peppershrike. 

We came upon an empty building next to a cashew tree grove, and some of us sampled the sweet, juicy fruit (above).  A Long-billed Starthroat buzzed some flowers, and several Yellow-bellied Seedeaters jumped into view in tall grass. Madeira Parakeets and a Paradise Jacamar were perched high near the river’s edge as we got back on the river again.  A quick boat ride brought us back to the site of the “Magic Pond” where we retrieved Edie’s sunglasses left from the previous evening, and also found a diminutive Rufous-capped Nunlet and a noisy Yellow-throated Woodpecker. We caught just a glimpse of bright red underparts as several Crimson- bellied Parakeets as they zoomed across the river and out of sight.

Further along the river we disembarked again to spend the rest of the morning on the birdy Bamboo Trail, a.k.a. Dr. Haffer’s Trail. Unlike the first trail which was open we were back in the forest. We were thrilled to see yet another jacamar species, this time a Great Jacamar perched at close range. There would be a steady stream of birds, which with Eduardo’s patience, we would see most of them well – Gray Antbird, Blue-backed Manakin, Gould’s Toucanet, White-shouldered Tanager, Gray Antwren, Blackish Antbird, Grayish Mourner, Long-tailed Woodcreeper, Wing-barred Piprites, Cinereous Antshrike, White-flanked Antwren, Red-stained Woodpecker, Dot-winged Antwren, Golden-bellied Euphonia and Slate-colored Grosbeak. We spent time tracking down a Manu Antbird, found only in bamboo stands and only managed to hear the Curve-billed Scythebill.

Butterflies once again showed well, and to no ones surprise there were many new gorgeous ones. A Phaleros Hairstreak took up residence on my scope; a Orsilochus Daggerwing landed on the back of Sigrid’s pants and my favorite was a Obrinus Olivewing (above).

A wonderful morning was topped off by a Tapir (above) seen from our boat walking along the riverbank.  It stepped down into the water, wading along the edge of the river in front of us. We were amazed to then see it swim across the river before climbing up the far bank and vanishing into the forest.

After a delicious lunch and mid-day break, we were back at the Cristalino landing site (above) to take our afternoon boat ride.  We had long decided that being in the boat was one of the best ways to bird!  This time we pointed downstream into the Teles Pires river.  Where the river widened and split around a small island, it created a current of rapids rippling over rocks.  On a half-submerged stone stood two Black-collared Swallows, one of our evening’s much-admired targets.  While the White-banded, White-winged and Rough-winged Swallows hawked insects at high speed all around us, this uncommon swallow stood still with the water swirling inches from his tiny body!  After we each had long satisfying looks, George skillfully maneuvered the boat into a cove and we jumped out onto Sand Island.

Sue and Janis were the first to find a Ladder-tailed Nightjar roosting on the ground. With a little more searching, there would be half a dozen more and plenty of opportunities for photographs (above)!

This little island is the best place to find the small Amazonian Tyrannulet (above), and it was not long before one was found flitting around a low shrub, not far from a pair of Red-capped Cardinals.  Char got on a Fork-tailed Flycatcher, and we all cooed at the sight of a Pied Lapwing herding her chick.  George knew just where to find another target species, an Umbrellabird whose head feathers give it, its name.

The setting sun produced a wonderful colored cloud sky scape for the boat ride back to the lodge. Along the way we encountered Chestnut-collared Aracari, Spangled Cotinga, Cocoi Heron and a lone Yellow-billed Tern.  While looking for Zig-zag Heron (no luck), we had a Plumbeous Kite, Ruddy Quail-Doves, Long-billed Woodcreeper, and White-throated Thrush (heard).  As darkness descended, we caught sight of a Mottled Owl in the spotlight, a wonderful way to end the day.