INDIA 2010 : Ranthambhore NP

Nov 11 – We held up Pankaj, our guide at Ranthambhore National Park, shortly after breakfast as we were tracking down a Common Tailorbird in the garden. Once we managed to get into our canter we were on our way to the main park gate, only minutes away. Formalities, which means endless paperwork in this part of the world, had to be completed before we were officially in the most popular of India’s tiger reserves.

A undulating paved road covering a distance of about 7 kilometers leads through patches of rocky open grasslands and dense forest to the entrance and base of the fort. The first of many Plum-headed Parakeets alighted on branches over us and we could not have asked for a nicer start to the day! We stopped often; for a Black-rumped Flameback, a large woodpecker with an iridescent golden back; a flock of Great Tits; a Common Cuckoo-shrike with a large dragonfly; Crested Serpent Eagle (above) perched over the boulder covered stream on which a Grey Wagtail was seen, and by the old archway over the road a diminutive Eurasian Kingfisher with its brilliant flash of blue, patiently waited for a passing fish.

For the mornings game drive we were assigned Track 3, which goes around the main lakes – Padam and Rajbagh – made famous in many tiger documentaries films by the “Lady of the Lake”, the tigress whose territory encompass this large body of water.

Being our first full day of birding their were many new species. A lone male Tufted Duck was on the picturesque lake with part of the ruins of Rajbagh Palace visible through dense forest on a island. Bronzed-winged Jacanas could be seen flying over the aquatic vegetation, a Purple Swamphen flew by us and Janis picked out a distant Purple Heron amongst the reeds. Indian Pond Herons stood motionless on overhanging branches inches above the water and a few White-browed Wagtails walked the lakes edges where Muggar Crocodile often lurked.

As the track wound its way around the lake through open forest, wetlands and golden grasslands we caught sight of our first mammals. A small group of Nilgai that included a male blue bull, and the the two more common deer, Chital (above), also known as Spotted Deer, and the larger Sambar, the latter two being the favorite food of that elusive tiger that we were all watching out for!

We frequently encountered India’s national bird, the Peafowl, often with chicks in tow. Perched on the bare branches at the top of trees were White-bellied Drongo’s, and our first Alexandrine Parakeet, the largest one here, showed well. Those that missed the Common Hawk Cuckoo on the first day got to see one in the open. In quick succession we watched a roosting Spotted Owlet (above) and an Indian Collared Scops Owl, always a favorite.

Before lunch we walked around the open low semi desert scrub (above) around our lodge, that is basically slowly in the process of being turned into agricultural plots. Between exchanging pleasantries with the local shepherds we found Common Redshank, Wood and Green Sandpiper in a depression filled with water form the recent rains. Ashy-crowned Sparrow Larks were numerous, feeding on seeds on the ground, and often not spotted until we were feet away. Indian Bush Lark, Tawny Pipits, Southern Grey Shrike and Long-tailed Shrike were also seen.

By mid afternoon we were back in the park, again drawing (lottery system) the same track as this morning. Once again the weather got the best of us. In a steady drizzle we had a few flocks of Large Grey Babblers; Black Redstart; Common Rosefinch, a summer visitor to the park that was still lingering here, and Oriental Darters on the lake. Eric found two male Greater Painted Snipe feeding in the edge of the marsh, and a few feet away was a stunning female.

As we were watching Wild Boar rooting around, there was an alarm call from a Sambar deer. Alas, that is all the indication to its possible whereabouts we got. By days end we were 0-2! On our return to the lodge, we finished the day at dusk with three Painted Sandgrouse flying into a small roadside pond for their nightcap.