KENYA: Amboseli NR

From Nairobi we took the better of the two roads, though longer distance wise, to Amboseli National Reserve. Fischer’s Sparrow-larks, Hildebrandt Starlings, Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse, Pale Chanting Goshawk, Rufous-crowned Roller and Kori Bustard were seen along the road before we turned south onto a new good road! It was a beautiful morning and from a distance of about 100 kilometers it was clear enough to see Mount Kilimanjaro (above), Africa’s highest peak, looming to the south. Kilimanjaro is made up of three peaks, with Kibo (right side) being the highest point at 19, 341 feet and Mawenzi (on the left) at 16,893 being Africa’s third highest peak after Mt. Kenya.

Once in Amboseli we soon came across two male lions, one of which walked into a culvert to get into the shade. The Ol Okenya Swamp, one of two permanent swamps in the park that is fed from Kilimanjaro’s run-off, creates a green belt in an otherwise flat, dry and barren landscape. Elephants and Buffalos were feeding in the swamp (above) as egrets, African Spoonbills, White-faced Whistling Ducks, Knob-billed Ducks and Spur-winged Geese fed amongst the aquatic vegetation.

The afternoons game drive began with Red-capped Larks, Kittlitz’s Plovers, Eurasian Marsh Harrier and Grey-crowned Cranes. In the distance we could see a storm brewing and we were mistaken in thinking that it would miss us. Slowly it began to engulf the whole park, and everyone was caught in a tremendous sand storm that reduced visibility to only a few feet and lasted for four hours, well into the early evening.

The last animals we saw were four elephants crossing the road (above) in front of us before having to crawl back, making sure we did not either bump into an elephant or end up in a ditch.

By daybreak the storm was gone, but sadly Kilimanjaro was cloud covered. One of our target birds, Double-banded Courser, was found before we reached the Enkongo Swamp. We worked our way around the eastern side of the swamp where there was a great deal to see. In one spot three Malachite Kingfishers (above) lined up along the bank and were picking off damselflies. Amongst hundreds of Knob-billed Coots, there was Garganey and a sleeping pair of White-backed Ducks. A lone juvenile Purple Heron matched a Goliath Heron for patience, as they stood motionless at the waters edge. Squacco Herons numbered in the dozens. African Jacanas walked amongst the lilies as a Spur-winged Plover closely guarded her three newly hatched chicks.

A pod of hippos emerged together from the swamp with two of them opening their mouths in a mock fight (above). At the Sinet Causeway, Winding Cisticolas, Red-rumped and Wire-tailed Swallows, Long-toed Plovers and Black Crakes took our attention away from the Buffalos wallowing in the swamp.

Our day looked as though it had ended early when we went deeper into mud while trying to cross the dry Amboseli lake bed (above), on our way out of the park. George managed to back out without any of us having to push, and we found a longer but more manageable course to the exit gate!