KENYA: Arabuko-Sokoke Forest

We would have several mornings and the afternoon that we arrived in Malindi to visit various sections of the Arabuko-Sokoke Forest Reserve. This is the largest remaining patch of native coastal forest in East Africa.

We picked up our excellent local guide Willy and headed inland to the Cynometra forest, which makes up almost half this coastal forest. Our target here is the Sokoke Scops Owl (above), which Willy had staked out. The habitat is dense and there were no trails to follow, but somehow Willy was able to lead us through, around, and under all type of vegetation, to a pair of brown-grey morphs owls. Walking back to the vehicle a Fiery-necked Nightjar lifted off the red soil track and disappeared into the night.

We spent our first morning in the more open Brachystegia woodlands (above). Sulking in the dense undergrowth was a Four-coloured Bush-Shrike. This gorgeous bird advertises its presence with a loud, clear three or four note call, making it frustrating that a bird so close, can be so tough to see. With patience we all got to see it.  Narina Trogons showed well and an Eastern Bearded Scrub-Robin was poking about the edge of the track. As we were watching Little Yellow Flycatchers and Black-headed Apalis actively feeding in shrubs, half-a-dozen Chestnut-fronted Helmet-Shrikes with two Dark-backed Weavers amongst them, moved through the canopy.

While trying to locate a calling Plain-backed Sunbird, a flock of Retz’s Helmet-Shrikes (above) landed in a wide brachystegia. Black-bellied Starlings soon followed as did several Clarke’s Weavers, a Kenyan endemic that is known only from this forest between April and November. They likely breed north of the Sabaki River early in the year, but no nest has ever been found.

As we worked various sections of the forest, many of the birds were vocal possibly due to the onset of the breeding season. We encountered Northern Brownbul, Pale Batis (above), Grey Cuckoo-Shrike, Eastern Black-headed Oriole, Greater and Pallid Honeyguide and Amani Sunbird. As we walked the sandy trail, watching Ant Lion pits, marching Singing Ants, Elephant footprints and Speke’s Sand Lizards running away from us, there was a Southern Banded Snake-Eagle calling from high in the sky.

Our second morning began with a Lizard Buzzard in a Palm tree as we headed to meet Willy (above left) at the park headquarters. Several Ashy Flycatchers were seen around the buildings. Taking the same track as yesterday, and branching off into the woodlands we soon saw Tiny Greenbul, Blue-mantled Crested-Flycatcher, Tambourine Dove and Sokoke Batis. Plain-backed Sunbirds were heard but continued to elude us in spite of Willy’s perseverance. We came across Red-tailed Ant-Thrushes, Mombassa Woodpecker, Eastern Olive Sunbird and followed the rising trill call of a Scaly-throated Honeyguide until we finally found it.

One of our targets was the Sokoke Pipit (above), a small heavily streaked bird. We searched areas of dense thickets with small patches of grasses along side, until we found two birds. Though they were never far away, they would walk through the grasses and under multi stemmed thickets making it tough to get a great view. It was not until one flew up and landed on a branch over our heads that we found it to be a very confiding bird.

Surprisingly the were not as many butterflies as I expected but we did have a few ranging in size from large Constantine’s Swallowtail (above) to Tiny Orange Tips.