KENYA: Crater Lake

The day before the tour was to begin, Ben and I headed just west of Lake Naivasha and north of Hell’s Gate National Park, to check out Crater Lake Camp. Once we had negotiated the winding track that led towards the lake, we were rewarded with a wonderful view of the small crater from the surrounding rim (above). At the waters edge lies the comfortably tented camp perfectly nestled into the woodland.

Lunch was on a floating restaurant (above) that was loosely chained to the end of the dock. The wind that came in with an impending storm swung us slowly around giving us almost a 180 degree view of Greater and Lesser Flamingos, Little Grebes, Cape Teal and Ruff’s swimming around us. Great White Pelican, Whiskered Tern, Maribou, Grey and Black-headed Heron, African Fish Eagle would also put in appearances. Around the lake’s well exposed mudflats Yellow-billed Storks, Pied Avocets, Egyptian Geese and Three-banded Plover rested in the midday heat.

Over the course of the afternoon and next morning we watched the activity around the tented camp and walked the edge of the woodland that surrounds the lake. Dark-capped Bulbul, African Pied Wagtail, Yellow-breasted Apalis, Variable Sunbird, Streaky Seedeater, African Hoopoe, Tropical Boubou, Spectacled and Baglefecht Weaver all common birds, were regularly seen. Small flocks of African Yellow White-eye’s would work their way through a tree near where I was watching a Red-headed Weaver putting the finishing touches to its pendulum-shaped nest, built from strangler fig roots. Fischer’s Lovebirds, most of which appeared to be hybrids with Yellow-collared, were cautious in approaching the bird bathe for a drink, while a Schalow’s Wheatear went about its business searching for food oblivious to our presence.

The explosive song of the Grey-capped Warbler burst forth from the thickets, and with patience we found one singing in the open. Hildebrandt’s Francolins also teased us with their raucous calls and could be seen scurrying away from us. As Black-and-white Colobus monkeys watched us from the safety of the canopy of Yellow-barked Acacia we located Tawny-flanked Prinia, Red-faced Crombec, Willow Warbler, Scarlet-chested Sunbird, Lilac-breasted Roller, Sulphur-breasted Bush-shrike, Grey-headed Bush-shrike, Arrow-marked Babbler, Greater Honeyguide, Black Cuckoo-shrike, Purple Grenadier, Eastern Black-headed Oriole, Bearded Woodpecker, as well as a few overhead including Eurasian Bee-eaters and three raptors, African Harrier Hawk, Peregrine and Grasshopper Buzzard. Swallows and swifts were well represented with Black Saw-wing, Barn Swallow, Plain Martin and Black Swifts all feeding on an insect hatch over the lake.

At dusk a pair of Spotted Eagle Owls alighted on a large bare tree behind the tents and during the course of the evening Montane Nightjar and African Scops Owl were heard.