KENYA: Lake Bogoria

Heading north out of Nakuru, Kenya’s 4th largest town, we crossed the equator once more on our way to another of the Rift Valley’s soda lakes, Bogoria. Being at the lowest elevation of the trip so far, 3160 feet, as well as mid afternoon once we arrived, it was hot!

There is only one poorly-conditioned road that skirts the western side of the lake, 16 kms to the Hot Springs, and we took our time. Beginning in the more open areas Ostriches rested in the shade, and we came across White-bellied Canary, Yellow-rumped Seedeater, Jackson’s Golden-backed Weaver, Pale and Spotted Flycatcher, while in the thorny scrub Little Weaver, Vitteline Masked Weaver, Black-throated Barbet, Eastern Violet-backed and Beautiful Sunbird, Blue-naped Mousebird and Magpie Starling got our attention.

Most of the lake was ringed in pink – with certainly more flamingos here than at Nakuru. Fish Eagles have taken to feeding on flamingos here, as there are no fish in the soda lake. Cape Teals are associated more with soda lakes than freshwater, so finding a flock of over 20 was not a surprise. There was also a couple of Black-necked Grebes out on the water.

At the Hot Springs (above), we alighted to get a good feel of the heat that the springs generate. Flamingos continuously fly along the waters edge and an assortment of expected shorebirds, Curlew Sandpiper, Pied Avocet, Ruff etc., feed on the mudflats. Around the parking area we found a Striped Ground Squirrel and Rock Hyraxes, while along the road Leopard Tortoise, as well as a chance to compare the nose differences of Gunther’s and Kirk’s Dik-diks.

Towards the end of the day we keep a watch for secretive Greater Kudu’s (above) coming down from the thickets for a drink, and we were lucky enough to see a male, two females and two younger ones including a fawn.