KENYA: Maasai Mara

We awoke to the sounds of calling Montane Nightjars and Hyaena’s. At first light three Oribi (above), an uncommon small antelope in Kenya, watched us walking to breakfast. Ahead of us we had a long day, having to traverse the Mara. The morning began with a handful of raptors, Gabar Goshawk, African Goshawk, Black-shouldered Kite, Tawny Eagle, Bateleur, Black-chested Snake-Eagle, Black Kite and Augur Buzzard to name a few. There was a mixed group of birds feeding on the ground near the entrance gate that included Yellow-throated Longclaw and Usambiro Barbets. We soon added Trilling Cisticola and Brown Snake-Eagle.

We frightened a Common Duiker which quickly moved from one thicket to another, and came across a male Bohor Reedbuck in another thickets. With all the prey that was about, where were the predators – Lions and Cheetahs?

Oxpecker’s are cooperative breeders and we witnessed this at a nest hole, with a Yellow billed Oxpecker (above) having animal fur in its bill and several others helping to place in it the nest. Their bills are flattened on the side enabling them to shear fur from the animals hide.

At the Musiara Swamp, what little water remained attracted Red-billed Teal, Woolly-necked Stork, Yellow-billed Stork, Defassa Waterbuck, Marsh Mongoose and close by Ann spotted our first Spotted Hyaena.

At the Mara River (above), vehicles were concentrated on the far side. If they were there in anticipation of a Wildebeest crossing it was odd, as the Wildebeest were already on our side. We soon figured out that they were anticipating an encounter between a crocodile and a zebra. Zebras were coming down to the river for a late morning drink, and one of the huge Nile Crocodiles was making an effort to stalk a zebra that had ventured into the water, instead of drinking at the edge. The zebra played it awfully close, backing away just before the crocodile could strike.

In the heat of the day most of the animals like to take a break and rest in the shade. For three Maasai Giraffes this meant standing under a lone tall Acacia tortilis.

Lunch was at the Mara Serena where Yellow-spotted Bush Hyrax and Mwanza Flat-headed Agamas (above) kept the photographers entertained. Following lunch our journey south took us away from the Mara Triangle and the wildlife was noticeably sparse though we did see some wonderful birds. Rosy-breasted Longclaw, Yellow-throated Sandgrouse and Sue spotted a Temminck’s Courser close to the road. We watched it walk in a semi circle doing an astonishing display. First it would pause, stand upright by lifting its body and bringing its neck down, then, stand upright and sticking its breast out, and finally, puff out and pump its breast. Quickly walking on, it would stop and repeat these same three steps. Extraordinary to watch.

After crossing the South Mara River bridge, and the obligatory stop along the Tanzania border which delineates the boundary between the Mara to the north and Serengeti to the south, we found a few more new birds, namely a large flock of Yellow-mantled Widowbirds, Black-bellied Bustard and Meyer’s Parrot. Finally we found a cat! But not one of the ones we expected. It was a Serval (above) walking through the tall grasses, beginning its late afternoon hunt. As a bonus we also saw a Side-striped Jackal, an uncommon sighting.