MAINE 2010: Amazing Puffins on Machias Seal Island

I arose on Sunday to another beautiful day in northeast Maine. Beneath blue skies, a few puffy clouds and lovely warm temperatures, I embarked from Cutler harbor (above) upon the 40-foot “Barbara Frost” to begin the Puffin Tour.

The waters were incredibly calm, like a sheet of glass, as Captain Andy Patterson (above) greeted the group warmly and steered us out of the sheltered cove of Cutler. There was no fog, making for crystal clear views of the first birds of the day – a majestic Bald Eagle soaring over our boat, and an Osprey perched on a Spruce Tree. Our Puffin journey had begun!

Machias Seal Island (above) actually comprises three small, low-lying rocky islands, located 9 miles southeast offshore from Cutler Maine, south of Grand Manan Island in the Grand Manan Channel, at the mouth of the Bay of Fundy. The 15-acre Machias Seal is the largest, and the only location suitable for people to step foot on.  Though Machias Seal Island is situated in Canadian waters, it is unclear exactly which country owns the property. In any case, it is unlikely any wars will be fought over it, and passports were not required for our visit. In 1944 the Canadian government declared the islands a bird sanctuary, and the birds have capitalized upon that ever since.

It took less than an hour to reach the main island, but the excitement began well before our arrival. Not far out of the cove we saw our first of several Northern Gannets flying in the distance. Soon we saw Atlantic Puffins (above), Razorbills (top left), Common Murres (top right) and gulls floating, diving and soaring low over the water. As we approached the island, the deep guttural sound of the puffins ‘aarrrrhhh’ were all around us, and birds were flying in every direction. Every person on the boat was standing, eyes glued to cameras or binoculars, absorbing this amazing audio-visual experience.

Captain Andy anchored the boat and briefed us about our on-shore experience. We transferred onto land via a small skiff, and soon were escorted to small blinds in groups of 3 or 4. We spent the next hour immersed within a seabird nesting colony, amidst 10,000 Atlantic Puffins, 3,000 Razorbills, and about 100 Common Murre’s.

We remained hidden from view as the birds swirled all around our wooden blinds (above), just inches away and focused on their own activities, oblivious to the frantic clicking of cameras and hushed murmurs of amazement.

The Puffins put on an amazing show. Their huge parrot-like bills seem almost comical, in a beautiful sort of way. Like most alcids, they seem unstable on the ground, waddling across the rocks and landing sometimes awkwardly.

We could hear the cries of many chicks (above left) from within the rocks, but glimpsed only one who briefly showed his sooty-gray plumage and small, narrow dark bill; the oversized bill grows in later. It is well that the chicks remain hidden deep in their burrows, or they might become food for the predatory gulls that patrolled the edges of the island. Indeed, we did see a Herring Gull make a meal of one unlucky fuzzy chick.

One hour and thousands of photos later, we left the island and re-boarded the Barbara Frost for a tour of the other two islands. On nearby North Rock, Harbor Seals (above) lounged on the kelp-covered rocks, while the larger Gray Seals frolicked in the surrounding waters, their heads bobbing up and down. Several family groups of Common Eiders paddled near the edges, well-camouflaged against the kelp.

We were all thrilled to get several sightings of a Minke Whale (above) as it surfaced to reveal its characteristic hooked dorsal fin. A large pod of Harbor Porpoises moved quickly through the waters not far from the whale. Captain Andy enjoyed our tour as much as we did, circling the boat several times to make sure we got good views, and providing a running commentary about marine mammals , bird behaviors and conservation. I have never met a more dedicated or enthusiastic boat captain!

After nearly 6 full hours, we journeyed back to Cutler Cove, enjoying the breathtaking scenery of spruce and fir trees, rugged boulders, soaring gulls and rustic wooden houses on the shore. The “Little River Lighthouse” marked the cove entrance, one of the many picturesque lighthouses dotted along the jagged, rocky coastline (above) of Maine’s “Bold Coast.” We spotted several Black Guillemots floating in the calm waters – a lovely way to end a most spectacular Puffin Tour experience.