MOROCCO: A day in the desert

Day 7 –  A thousand shades of earth tones sparkled from the desert as we explored the Erg (sand dunes) around M’Hamid. The region attracts tourists with 4×4 rides through the sands, camel trekking, and a chance to spend the night in a bivouac like the nomads. After a brief morning tour of the close dunes and camp – the same one as yesterday – we headed deeper into the vast desert wilderness accompanied by an experienced guide. 22-year old Omar negotiated the dunes with expert ease, willing to stop whenever we yelled “arret!” when spotting larks or a perched shrike.

Hoopoe Lark

There are not many bird species to be found in the desert, but some were relatively common, including numerous White-crowned Wheatears, and Bar-tailed Larks moving around the dry “wadis.” We saw several striking Hoopoe Larks, a few Desert Sparrows and a lone Trumpeter Finch pecking in the dirt.

Camels in the Sahara

Heading southwest, we passed through the “Valley of the Ostrich” named long ago by the local people who hunted them to extirpation. A flock of sheep appeared seemingly out of nowhere, tended by a lone herdsmen. We marveled that they had probably walked over 10 kilometers for the animals to nibble on a few bits of scraggly vegetation, barely visible above the surface. Similar herds of goats were also around. Camels also dotted the distant landscape, often without an apparent master, though surely one was nearby. Actually, they are domestic dromedaries, with one hump, and prized for their ability to walk long distances across the sand with little food or water. They plod slowly on soft, oversized round hooves, carrying people and heavy loads. Desert people rely upon these animals for meat, milk, transportation, toil and tourism. It seems that a donkey’s life is worst of all, as these small beasts carried heavier loads everywhere through city streets and rural areas, toiling non-stop for their owners.

The edge of the Sahara Desert

The desert landscape undulated in sweeping vistas of ever-changing colors, depending on the light. Wisps of clouds floated high above, adding nothing more than a painter’s brushstroke to the piercing blue sky. It rains only 3 or 4 times a year, in bursts that last about 15 minutes. Enough water to temporarily fill the dry wadis and stony riverbeds. If it rained any more, dwellings would disintegrate, as they are made of earthen clay – pise Structures stand for decades, even a hundred or more years before, dissolving under the force of natural winds and rains.

Oasis

The plateau ridge-lines ran in distinctive peaks, dips and straight lines, no doubt serving as landmarks for nomads who crossed vast distances without aid of maps or compass. Shimmering mirages appeared and vanished just as quickly beneath the blinding sun. Silhouettes of palm trees emerged as we approached a lone oasis in the middle of the desert. Water was harnessed from a well and channeled into canals to support bright green vegetation. Unbelievably, we found several dozen African Green Frogs chirping in a moss-lined channel shaded by palm trees. We wondered how the first frogs managed to find this remote place where they could thrive and reproduce?

Erg Chgaga

Reaching Erg Chgaga, a vast region of large sand dunes, we were greeted by several men working at Le Pacha’s bivouac site. The area featured a ring of sleeping tents and a large dining tent to accommodate guests eager to experience a bit of nomadic lifestyle. We enjoyed our picnic lunch under a tent canopy of woven camel-hair, sheltered from the wind-blown sand, accompanied by hot tea and two young men who were very keen to see Adrian’s photos.

Houbara Bustard

During the return journey, Omar turned on a bit of traditional Mali music, and we were lulled by desert magic – wind blowing sand across dunes, ridges layered in multiple colors, rocks scattered about in hundred shades of tan. Suddenly, Adrian yelled to stop, and there was much excitement that he spotted a pair of Houbara Bustards flying low over a rocky hillside. One landed and walked quickly into the wadi scrub. We kept an eye on it while driving closer. It flew off, and we gave chase in an exciting, bouncy ride off the tracks and across the rocky slopes. Unfortunately, it flew out of sight over a ridge, but we had gotten solid views of this elusive desert species that has learned to hide from hungry human hunters.

Cream-coloured Courser

Farther down the track, Omar stopped when we saw a pair of Cream-colored Coursers directly in front of the vehicle. Visibility was low as sand was blowing across the wadi, but we got great looks at close range. A Desert Wheatear perched in view close by. Our luck continued when we came across 9 Spotted Sandgrouse crouched on the ground several yards away from our vehicle. We saw them for a few moments before they decided to fly off in a chattering flock.

Vegetable Tajine

Our wonderful desert excursion ended late afternoon, when we said goodbye to Omar and jumped back in with Mustapha for the one-hour drive north back to Zagora. We checked into the Fibule du Dra and relaxed over another delicious tajine dinner followed by creme caramel.

text © debbie beer; all photos © adrian binns