MOROCCO: Merzouga to Boumalne

December 10 – Today we departed early from the deep desert of Morocco and traveled northwest towards Boumalne.  Multiple stops provided plenty to see and experience along the way.

Wells

We pulled over to inspect a long-abandoned well dug deep into the ground.  It looked like a mini volcano protruding up from the sandy landscape, just a few yards from the road.  It was one of hundreds of such structures situated close together, covering a vast area in a fascinating, alien-looking landscape.  We wondered how people dug these wells without use of machinery, many decades ago.  And why were so many of them dug so close together?  Our driver, Mustapha, told us these well have been dry for at least a 100 years.

Further on, we stopped to inspect a more modern well.  This one was made of concrete and featured the recognizable bucket hanging from a bar, suspended over the opening.  Deb tried it for herself, and with some reasonable effort, was able to haul up a dripping bucket of cold water and pour it into the adjacent trough.  Such wells are dotted around the countryside, providing critical water sources for herders and livestock.  Birds benefit too; a flock of Trumpeter Finches flew in immediately for a drink.

Yellow Scorpion

At our next stop, we focused on finding small, non-avian creatures.  Mustapha chose a seemingly random place along the rocky plains to pull over, get out, and begin flipping over small boulders to peer underneath.  We were delighted when he called us over to see 2 large black beetles entangled in their web nest, along with 2 Tripoli Pygmy Geckos squirming in the light.  Soon all 3 of us were flipping rocks in search of interesting insects and reptiles. We found a bright orange ‘tiger’ centipede, and one small Yellow Scorpion.  Mustapha explained that scorpions are quite common in the warmer months, but most are hibernating now, being December.

Scrub Warbler

East of Goulmina, we stopped in a likely-looking wadi to search for our target Scrub Warbler.  We quickly found 4 of them in this birdy spot, and spent ample time enjoying their lively activity.  We followed a large flock of 200 Lesser Short-toed Larks, which sporadically leaped up off the ground, flew low and fast over scrubby shrubs, then settled back down again out of sight. Good numbers of Thekla’s, Temmick’s and Hoopoe Larks were seen foraging.

Dates

In the town of Goulmina we stopped to buy a large box of dates from a roadside stand.  Adrian enjoyed haggling with the vendor who explained that different quality dates cost different prices.  His cart displayed an enticing assortment of the sweet fruits, ranging in color from golden yellow to deep brown caramel.  We ended up with a 3-kilo box of medium-quality dates, which we preferred in taste over the fanciest ones!  We would hardly make a dent in eating this large box, as we had only a few days left of our trip.

Todra Gorge

Continuing west towards Tinejdad, we stopped briefly for a flock 9 Fulvous Babblers perched on a shrub close to the road.  Unfortunately they didn’t stay long enough flying from shrub to shrub further away.  We moved on to the highlight of the day – exploring the Todra Gorge.  The winding road through the steep gorge attracts myriad visitors, featuring spectacular scenery, quaint villages tucked against the mountains, and a lush, green riverbed.  The narrowest part of the gorge is just 100 feet wide – a shadowed mountain pass, where the rolling river rushes right next to the road.  Like other tourists, we stopped at this juncture to admire the majestic landscape, feeling small beneath the towering cliff sides and noisy river rapids.

Bonelli’s Eagle

We ate our picnic lunch on the far side of the narrow pass, in a sunny pullover, sitting on boulders.  We watched European rock climbers scale the sheer cliffs with ropes and harnesses.  Suddenly, two Bonelli’s Eagles soared into view overhead, lazily circling together.  We watched breathlessly as they honed in on a Cattle Egret that had come out of the pass, and chased it around.  Rock Pigeons, (real ones!) flushed off their ledge perches and flew around nervously.  A most exciting lunch stop for us!

Atlas Long-legged Buzzard

Back out of the gorge, we continued west towards Boumalne, stopping briefly to get a view of a Little Owl perched on a rock pile.  It was a while before we noticed it’s mate standing a hundred yards away.  We scanned roadside escarpments for falcons and eagle-owls without luck, though we found several Atlas Long-legged Buzzards sitting atop electric poles and standing on the ground.  One buzzard stood fairly close to a Fat Sand Rat that was munching contentedly on a mouth full of vegetation.  These gerbil-sized rodents serve as ample food sources for desert raptors.

Red-rumped Wheatear

We spent the final hours of daylight traversing dirt tracks that criss-cross an expansive, low-scrub rocky plain, outside the town of Boumalne.  A variety of larks, sandgrouse and other animals inhabit this area, known as the Tadgilt Track.  Feral dogs also roamed around, staying close to the town’s open garbage pit, which litters the plains with unsightly plastic and other debris. We tried to avoid the dump, but ended up following many birds, including Red-rumped Wheatears to the site, which apparently provides plenty to eat for hungry scavengers willing to forage amidst broken glass and low-burning fires.

We veered away from the dump to take a track towards the hills, unexpectedly flushing a flock of Black-bellied Sandgrouse. We followed them to their landing spot and saw they had joined an even larger flock, which included some Spotted Sandgrouse in the mix!

We had seen a wonderful variety of birds and animals today, and traveled through some beautiful, scenic landscapes.  What would tomorrow bring?
text © debbie beer; all photos © adrian binns