MOROCCO: Over the Tiz n’ Tichka, High Atlas

December 12 – Our last full day in Morocco was no less memorable than all the others, filled with exciting experiences and memories to last a lifetime.

Ait Ben Haddou

After a delicious breakfast, we departed from the wonderful Dar Daif in Ouarzazate and headed northwest to Marrakesh.  We stopped briefly to admire an ancient Kasbah, Ait Ben Haddou, in the process of being restored, which attracts local artisans and supports the important tourist trade.  Another detour led us in search of a Maghreb Wheatear.  We were lucky to find the bird close by, characteristically perched on scrub vegetation or a rock as it paused to survey potential food sources.

Back on the main road, we unanimously decided to return to the peak of Oukaimeden, for another chance at finding alpine species that we missed our first day in the country, when the mountain was covered in 30 cms of snow.  But first we needed to get over the Tiz n’ Tichka pass (2260 meters), a winding road that went up and down in elevation as it traversed the High Atlas Mountains.

North African Raven chasing Red-billed Chough

As we ascended to higher points, Deb felt ill with altitude sickness, and missed some spectacular scenery.  As we began our descent we encountered a gregarious feeding flock of Red-billed Choughs along a lush green slope, as North African Ravens circled around.  We watched, fascinated, as two ravens honed in one chough and chased it relentlessly.  The chough flew for its life, swerving away from the ravens’ claws countless times.  The smaller bird grew visibly more fatigued, escaping by tiny margins, as the ravens took turns diving at it.  The chough eventually flew into a roadside culvert, safe for the moment.  The ravens settled patiently to wait, knowing it would fly out soon enough, and they would snag it for a meal.

African Blue Tit

Continuing on our descent, we stopped several times including for our picnic lunch, and found a nice assortment of birds including Wood Pigeon, Great Tit, Atlas Blue Tit, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Firecrest, Cirl Bunting and Cetti’s Warbler.

For the second time in our trip, we drove across the plains Haouz Plain, passing by Thekla Larks, Moussier’s Redstarts, Desert Wheatears and Common Kestrel, along with ubiquitous goats and olive trees. Ascending up to Oukaimeden, one of the highest reachable peaks by road in Morocco, we noted most of the snow was melted, and hoped for ample avian activity at the top!

Atlas Horned Lark

Snow lingered on the summit, and a handful of skiers were enjoying the resort on this weekday. Adrian’s persistence had paid off, as we soon had good looks at Rock Sparrows, and the birds we really wanted to see, Atlas Horned Larks and African Crimson-winged Finches. The larks, a dozen or more, were oblivious to any human activity and happily foraged amongst the plowed parking areas. We located a small group of finches moving about exposed boulders on a snow covered slope. These required viewing through the scope which gave us very satisfying looks of this shy alpine species.

We descended the mountain and headed back to Marrakesh for our last night in Morocco.  It felt a little strange to drive into the bustling, rush-hour city, after so many days of rocky plains, arid scrub habitat and desert sand dunes.  We parked along the 12th century city ramparts next to the Bab Doukkala (arched gateway), unable to drive inside it, unloaded our bags, and said a hasty, heartfelt good-bye to our faithful driver, Mustapha.  A porter greeted us warmly, loaded our luggage into a large wooden wheelbarrow, and beckoned us to follow him through narrow, winding alleyways.  We could barely keep up with him, distracted by crowded streets, colorful shops, noisy motorcycles, and dodging donkeys pulling carts.  After about 10 minutes walk, we reached a large wooden door tucked in a shadowy corner of bland, stucco walls.  Was this our lodging?

Riad Magellen

When the door opened, we were shocked and delighted to see an immaculate, gorgeous, designer-decorated “riad.”  With just 6 guest rooms, the Riad Magellan was one of several small properties owned or managed by a charming French couple, all located within a few minutes walk of the internationally-famous Djemma el Fna square.  Like many European tourists (and very few Americans), the attraction of the square was the main reason for booking this particular accommodation.

After settling in to a charming, double-story bedroom, we were eager to head out to the streets to explore the square and a little of the city.  Marrakesh is famed for it’s tourist hospitality, and the Riad Magellan manager assured us we were safe to walk around at night.  He gave us a tiny map with directions to negotiate the maze of alleyways from the Riad to the square, and sent us on our way.

Food vendor in Djemma el Fna

It was nearly 8pm by the time we reached the square, but it was buzzing with activity.  Food sellers hawked their open-air stands loudly, urging hungry tourists to try their exotic dishes.  We were quickly drawn to a set of tables covered in white plastic table covers, given menus, and encouraged to order tajines, vegetables or kebabs.  We decided on mixed seafood platter, which was selected from mounds of fresh raw ingredients displayed on a cart, and cooked quickly before our eyes.  We relaxed over our savory meal, enjoying exotic sights of blood-dripping meats, heaps of snails, rows of fresh oranges, boxes of dates, and dessert carts stopping at every food stall, to sell enticing- looking confections by the box-full.

Djemma el Fna Souk

Behind the belly-busting food, were dancers, story-tellers, henna-artists and magicians.  Crowds gathered around the most talented, whooping and clapping in approval.  We walked a little ways away from the square, towards the statuesque Koutoubia Mosque.  Like any big city, the night-life crowds never waned, with people of all ages, sizes and backgrounds walking and talking in the streets.  Horse-drawn carriages lined a straightaway, their drivers ceaselessly beckoning us to take a ride. Tourist were few and far between at this time of year. Vendors lined another side of the square, selling everything from lanterns, pottery and baskets, to shoes, scarves, spices and herbs.  Adrian haggled with several shop-owners for great bargains on painted bowls and woven baskets.

There was much to see, but the day was already long. We left Morocco early the next morning, departing with thousands of photos and as many wonderful memories of a fascinating country, filled with friendly people and some great birds!

text © debbie beer; all photos © adrian binns