YUCATAN: Calakmul to Valladolid

Day 6 / March 6 – Today we began a half-hour earlier than yesterday, in the hopes of seeing more wildlife during the wee hours of the morning.  We were thrilled when our efforts were so richly rewarded!  Driving slowly back down the 60-km road to Calakmul, we heard the spine-chilling roars of Howler Monkeys echoing around us, and spotted a Gray Fox crossing before our headlights. There were at least 3 Yucatan Nightjars calling and we watched one of them fly across the road several times. A symphony of owls sounded around us, including Mottled, Ferruginous Pygmy Owl and several Vermiculated Screech Owls, one of which we saw well. Plain Chacalacas, Laughing Falcon and Blue-crowned Motmot added to the chorus.  Bob tracked down the barking calls of a Barred Forest Falcon to its perch quite close to the road, giving us great looks.  What a glorious way to experience the break of dawn in the forest!

With the rising sun came bursts of activity, and we stopped often to investigate.  One stop at 7am yielded Rose-throated Tanager (above), Gray-breasted Chat, Yellow-olive Flycatcher, Rufous-tailed Hummingbird, White-bellied Emerald, Canivet’s Emerald, Lesser Greenlet, White-eyed Vireo, Northern Parula, Magnolia and Black- throated Green Warbler. 

We saw 3 Great Currasows (above), one of which vanished into the shrubbery, while the other two crossed the road and could be seen walking on some fallen limbs a few yards inside the woods.

We braked hard for our second, breathtaking sighting of Puma (above).  A female adult sauntered out onto the road, paused, and turned to face the forest patch from which she had just exited.  This must have been the signal for her cub to come out and join her.  He followed her faithfully, even when she stopped to look at our vehicle for a moment.  We even saw the cub jump playfully against his mother for a minute, before the two of them disappeared into the forest.  Another spectacular experience and it was not even 8am!

By the time we reached the entrance to Calakmul we had added Long-billed Gnatwren, White-browed Wren and Mangrove Vireo to the morning tally. We were greeted by several curious Ocellated Turkeys, though our attention was drawn to a Yucatan Squirrel scampering up a tree.  Noisy flocks of White-fronted Parrots flew over the canopy as we studied the resident pair of Bat Falcons (above) for a while.  We watched the large female tear into her latest meal, an unlucky vireo, and witnessed a mating between the two.

With a long ride ahead, we reluctantly turned around and worked our way back up the road.  Another stopped car brought our attention to a troop of White-nosed Coatis (above) shuffling through the woods. A roadside wetland produced our first Bare-throated Tiger Heron, along with Gartered Trogon, Bright-rumped Attila, Louisiana and Northern Waterthrushes. White Satyr and Small Beauty butterflies flitted in the dappled sunshine.

Surprisingly, reptiles were rather elusive, but we did see Yucatan Spiny Lizard (above) and Bighead Anole back at the lodge.

We packed up and began the long journey north to Valladolid.  The 7-hour drive was broken up with stops to check out another lodge, and have lunch before a heavy rainstorm rolled in, slowing our progress. An hour away from our destination, our headlights caught eye-shine from a nightjar. We pulled over and searched for about 45 minutes, hearing only the Yucatan Poorwill.  Driving a little farther, Adrian’s keen eyes spotted more eye-shine, and this time it was the Yucatan Nightjar perched on a roadside shrub, frozen in view for long minutes.

If not for the late hour and rumbling stomachs, we might’ve been more keen to experience the lively carnival that was going on in full swing in the square in front of our hotel.  We enjoyed the music while dining in the open courtyard hotel restaurant, but were grateful that our rooms were located way in the back.  We slept peacefully after the long exciting day.