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Antarctica: Crossing the Drake Passage

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May 10, 2010 | by Kevin Loughlin
A few Southern Fulmars offered good views as we crossed the Drake Passage

Crossing the Drake Passage takes about two days, depending on the weather. ‘The Drake’ has a wide-spread reputation… and not a good one for those who get seasick. However, its reputation for great birding far outweighs anything else and is well worth any discomfort. We were not disappointed!

We had departed Ushuaia late in the day, and between ship orientation and dinner, we did not get much birding in before darkness fell. Our night was full of fun and making new friends before retiring to our spacious superior cabin for the night. During the night, The Drake reminded us where we were!

BINGBANGBONG — the morning call came as a surprise at 7:30am! But the regular sound from the intercom speaker, which warned of a coming announcements for meals or special sightings, quickly became a part of our lingo. (Lisa still repeats the chiming sound to get my attention!)

After breakfast, off to bird we went!

One of the first birds seen as we exited the door into the brisk breeze was a Black-Browed Albatross (pictured above). They we one of the most plentiful species throughout our Drake crossing. As we continued we began seeing additional species rarely seen closer to South America.

Southern Giant Petrels were easily recognized by their large pinkish bill. Though we saw many at sea, they became much more numerous as we approached the Antarctic Peninsula.

After a break for an excellent presentation by the ships birding guide, we devoured out lunch, took a brief nap and braved to chilly  sea air once again.

By the time we got back outside, Cape Petrels, with their beautiful black and white pattern, had become ubiquitous. Large numbers followed our ship, flying passed on either side and drifting back in the wind to do it again. If you look close you can see the wingtip of this one barely shearing the water’s surface.
We searched the flocks for other birds and found Slender-billed Prion and Antarctic Prion (pictured above).
In the distance we could see storm-petrels dancing on the ocean surface, most of them were Wilson’s Storm Petrels. However, a few Black-bellied Storm Petrels (pictured above) appeared between the waves.
BINGBANGBONG it was time for dinner. We found window seats so we could watch the birds pass in the waning sunlight…

text and photos © Kevin Loughlin

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