AUSTRALIA: NORTHERN TERRITORY, Kakadu NP

Aboriginal Rock Art

Sept 29: “Our land has a big story.  Some times we tell a little bit at a time.  Come and hear our stories …. ”  Such was the aboriginal welcome we felt at Kakadu National Park, covering nearly 20,000 square kilometers of Australia’s Northern Territory.  As a designated World Heritage site, Kakadu National Park is protected for it’s cultural as well as natural values, featuring exceptional landscape and unique biodiversity.  The Park is a haven for more than 290 bird species, and we spent a full day here to see as many as we could, many of which are endangered or threatened species.

Our day began like many others in Australia, departing before breakfast for a two-hour boat cruise on the Yellow Water Billabong (ox bow lake), which is part of the South Alligator River floodplain. We enjoyed seeing a variety of bird life up close, including amazing views of a Little Kingfisher with a crayfish in it’s bill.  Repeated signs warned us of the dangers of crocodiles, though with the exception on one gliding towards us, the rest were basking lazily!

We drifted quietly by Whistling Kite and White-bellied Sea Eagle, both perched on riverbank trees, and stopped to watch Green Pygmy Goose and Comb-crested Jacanas, aka Lily Trotters, foraging in aquatic vegetation. A Nankeen Night Heron stood motionless in the shadows.  Magpie Geese, Glossy Ibis, Rajah Shelduck, Royal Spoonbill, Plumed and Wandering Whistling Duck were seen resting and feeding in the shallows, while a pair of Whiskered Terns hunted across the marsh.

A Black-necked Stork, known locally as Jabiru, not to be confused with the New World Jabiru, was the tallest bird we encountered, though we did get considerably closer to an Australian Pelican. This one had a hole in its pouch, no doubt due to an encounter with a another pelican that speared it!

The biggest mammal was a Swamp Buffalo. Introduced from Asia almost 200 years ago, these have not been domesticated and are not only dangerous but of serious concern to the environment.  We pulled up to the bank to get a head height look at two Water Pythons basking on branches overhanging the water.

Our boat captain happily obliged when we asked him to stop for views of some small passerines, little appreciated by the non-birder boat passengers. This afforded us good looks at Rufous-breasted and Bar-breasted Honeyeaters, Buff-sided Robin, and Arafura Fantail, along with Broad-billed, Shining and Paperbark Flycatcher, the latter sitting on its nest whose outer layer was constructed with paperbark – hence where it gets its name from.

Following breakfast at the Gagudju Lodge, we drove to Nourlangie Rocks, an escarpment of rocky outcroppings that provided shelter to early aborigine inhabitants. This location is well known for its aborigine rock-art dating back 20,000 years.  Walking towards the outcropping, we found a Sandstone Helmeted Friarbird on a nest. John got a gorgeous photo of an Orange Lacewing butterfly.  We gazed at a line of Green Ants trekking up tree trunks towards their nests made of interwoven leaves. White-lined, White-gaped and White-throated Honeyeaters were seen near a rock art painting depicting a kangaroo hunt.  On the way back to our bus, we found Cicadabird and Rufous Whistler.

In the shadow of Nourlangie Rock lies Anbangbang Billibong. Most of the activity here seemed to be on the far side, we could see a dozen or so Red-tailed Black-Cockatoos and a large flock Little Corellas flying about. White-necked and Pied Herons hunted in a pool of water lilies.

With temperatures reaching about 100-degrees F, we took a mid-afternoon break from the heat and humidity. Some of our group visited the Cultural Center while others napped or relaxed.  As temperatures cooled a bit, we took a late afternoon stroll across the grounds, seeking shade under stately trees.  Avian activity picked-up and we came across an interesting assortment of birds, including Leaden Flycatcher, White-throated Honeyeater, Great Bowerbird, Pale Lemon Flyrobin, White-bellied Cuckooshrike, Pied Imperial Pigeons, Spangled Drongo and Sulphur-crested Cockatoos taking a sip of water from a leaking spigot. Reaching the river, we heard growling sounds reminiscent of a Howler Monkey, coming from the far bank. Joy spotted the vocalist, a Great Billed Heron, which is about the size of a Great Blue Heron, but very secretive, preferring to stay concealed along the rivers edge. We also got to see a Whistling Kite on its nest and heard a Barking Owl while it was still light outside!

Kakadu National Park had shared many wonders with us, and we looked forward to exploring another area of the Northern Territory as we continue our Australian adventure.
all photos © adrian binns