TANZANIA 2010: Lake Manyara NP

Standing on the lip of the western edge of the escarpment, where our lodge is located, we overlook the Great Rift Valley. An assortment of hirundines – Red-rumped Swallow, Rock Martins, White-rumped, Little and massive Mottled Swifts zip passed us as tremendous speed. Nestled at the foot of the Rift Valley 2/3rd of Lake Manyara National Park (above) is covered by the shallow soda lake. The name Manyara is derived from the Maasai word ‘emanyara’, for prickly euphorbia thorns – perfect for protecting their bomas.

From the entrance, the road winds its way through a thick broadleaf forest dominated by croton, fig, palms and mahogany. Narrow streams of groundwater cut paths through the woods. Sykes Monkeys and large troops of Olive Baboons (above) preen and play besides the road, and never seem to be too far from a water source. In more open areas herds of Impalas browse the brush, Warthogs graze the rough grass, and a mother Elephant was determined to make it across the dirt road with her young calf before we could get passed her.

In the woods we came across several pairs of Crowned Hornbills; a pair of Striped Kingfishers (above) happily resting on a perch and Ashy Flycatchers sitting below the canopy of shade trees. In the top of palm trees Collared Palm Thrushes, who were busy gathering food for their young, were being harassed by Fischer’s Lovebirds. We paused at a bridge over a fast flowing stream and watched a Mountain Wagtail hop from one boulder to another as a Holub’s Golden Weaver was bathing.

Once through the forest we entered a large expanse of short-grass floodplain. Warthogs, Zebra and Giraffes were the common mammals along this stretch. Grey-crowned Cranes (above) strolled close to the road and a couple of Cardinal Queleas were spotted amongst a multitude of Red-billed Queleas. At the hippo pool, the hippos had Common Sandpipers, Little Egrets and oxpeckers on their backs. Comb Ducks, White-faced Whistling Ducks, Spur-winged Plover, Pink-backed Pelicans, Water Thick-knees, Long-tailed Cormorants and herons, most of whom stood at the waters edge, added to the wonderful mix of species in this small area. Small flights of Lesser Flamingos could be seen in the distance, with many thousands seen later as we drove nearer to the edge of the lake. A Palm Nut Vulture flew in circling over the pool before landing in an acacia.

We made one other stop, this one being at the picnic site. Though we are allowed out of our vehicle here, the rangers kept us a tight leash and reigned us in just as we where tracking down three Black-and-white Cuckoos! Eastern Violet-backed Sunbird, Blue-capped Cordon-bleu and the brilliant Red-and-yellow Barbet (above) were very cooperative here.

As we headed back towards the impressive rise of the escarpment a small raptor, an Amur Falcon flashes by and we were able to find a small group of lovely Mosque Swallows in flight and eventually perched.,

Following lunch back at the Serena, we took a bit of break before heading back to the park for a night game drive. It gave everyone a chance to catch up on rest (Scott), wash (two weeks worth for Colin), and shopping (Alison). We did get to walk the grounds and soon had Scarlet-chested Sunbird, Spotted Morning Thrush, Spot-flanked Barbet, Southern Citril, Black Bishop and our target, Yellow-bellied Greenbul (above).

As night fell we entered the park for a bush dinner (above) put on by the creative Serena chef. Chicken, beef, assorted sauces, vegetables, tropical fruits….it was certainly an excellent dinner under the stars. This was followed by a couple of hours driving many of the tracks we had covered during the day. There was a steady stream of sightings in the spotlight throughout the evening. We began with a Large-spotted Genet, followed by an African Civet, several Crested Porcupine, White-tailed Mongoose, Greater Galago, Senegal (Lesser) Galago’s, Black-backed Jackal and Spotted Hyena.

Numerous Slender-tailed Nightjars (above) were on the dirt road, as well as a few Plain Nightjars. We ended this wonderful night funnily enough by finding roosting Silvery-cheeked Hornbills, a species that we should have seen but missed in the daytime!