TANZANIA 2010: The Central Serengeti

A morning walk around the Serena grounds (above) produced Arrow-marked Babblers around the swimming pool, Bare-faced Go-away-bird, White-browed Scrub-Robin, Red-fronted Tinkerbird, Red-fronted Barbet, Red-fronted Warbler and a displaying Brown-crowned Tchagra at the new patio overlook. A gregarious group of Northern White-crowned Shrikes took a break from foraging and sat together on a branch preening, as a Marico and Beautiful Sunbird fought over a nearby nectar source. We tracked down a calling Pygmy Batis and came across a Common Redstart.

A Tanzanian Red-billed Hornbill (above) opening up its wings and slowly raising its head to expose its bare pink throat in display.

As we headed away from the Serena and towards the Retina Pool there were many stops along the way. We lost sight of a D’Arnaud’s Barbet that went from a shrub, to the ground, and then out of sight down its underground hole. Groups of Magpie Shrikes were a common sight and Black-lored Babblers showed well. The whydahs were a big hit with the group as we had excellent views of male Pin-tail, Steel-blue and Eastern Paradise Whydahs all with long tail streamers. In one tree a Meyer’s Parrot (above) kept guard at its nest hole and a Von der Decken’s Hornbill kept bringing nesting material and food to feed its mate.

On the Kubukubu loop road, the edge of the savanna held Double-banded Coursers, Grey-capped Social Weavers, Swahali Sparrow, Black-faced Sandgrouse, White-bellied Canary and Black-backed Jackals.
There was a steady parade of raptor sightings beginning with hovering Lesser Kestrels, both Montagu and Pallid Harrier, and a Black-headed Snake-Eagle sailing overhead. Secretary Birds were spotted on their nest. There was a very confiding Dark Chanting Goshawk (above) perched above our track in a Flat-topped Acacia and we finished with a pair of Pygmy Falcons (below) on top of a Whistling-thorn Acacia feeding on a agama lizard.

The concentration of hippos at Retina Pool was not as large as in years past, but nevertheless, there were more than we had encountered to date on this trip. This is one spot within the park where we are allowed out of our vehicles enabling us to walk down to the water level and get very close to them!

With so many packed into a small area it was not surprising that we witnessed various forms of aggression. Loud snorting and grunting preceded a huge commotion as a dominant male exploded out of the water and trounced a junior member of the pod. Others would pair off and jaw with each other. While all this was going on a Nile Crocodile kept its distance basking on the river bank, until it quietly slid into the water, drawing the attention of the closest hippos.

After lunch Colin found a Cinnamon-breasted Rock Bunting as we walked around the Serena compound and Erica came across a Golden-breasted Bunting. A Familiar Chat bopped about the lodges as a Black-faced Waxbill and Green-winged Pytillia bathed along with Red-cheeked Cordon-bleus and Bronzed Mannikins in a small depression.

During the afternoon game drive we began our search for Karamoja Apalis amongst patches of Whistling-thorn Acacia, but it is like looking for a needle in a haystack. As a consolation in this habitat we located a male Bearded Woodpecker. Fawn-coloured (White-browed) Larks were singing besides the track and we did find our only Black Coucal (above) of the trip.